Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
At the Jungfrau hotel, a mere châlet on the side of the Wengern Alp, we
were close under that magnificent mountain, separated only by a narrow
gorge, and elevated just enough to have the most perfect view from base
to summit. We had heard the day previous the crash and roar of falling
avalanches on the other side of the Wetterhorn, and I was very anxious
to see one; before long I saw two, one of them a pretty good one, come
tumbling and roaring down the Jungfrau. Soon a thick cloud came and
enveloped these mountains, so that I departed earlier than I should have
done; it threatened to rain; and we descended into the valley of
Lauterbrunnen, which is very deep and narrow, and had on the way a fine
view of the valley and the mountains and glaciers that close its upper
extremity. Saw the celebrated fall of the Staubbach, and was
disappointed in it....
Walked rapidly down the valley of Lauterbrunnen to the lake of Brienz,
turning aside so as not to pass through Interlaken, which is a little
British colony; took a boat to the opposite end of the lake (eight
miles); had a heavy shower and much wind; saw the falls of Giessbach
from the lake, seven very fine cascades one above the other. Landed at
Brienz; took a char up to Meyringen again, looking at the beautiful
waterfalls from each side of the valley, now very full from the rains.
Arrived at my own lodgings at five o’clock, having accomplished in the
twelve hours fifty miles, of which thirty-two were traveled on foot.
Saturday, 29th, rose in good condition, breakfasted, and parted with my
thoroughly Swiss landlady at five o’clock; went up the vale of Hassli,
one of the finest in Switzerland, for the Grimsel, perhaps the wildest
and grandest pass across the Alps. It is a footpath, or at best a
bridle-path. I set out alone, with my knapsack on my back. Ascended a
considerable distance when the clouds sunk lower and it began to rain,
though I had the satisfaction to see down the valley that the sun was
shining at Meyringen. Passed the last little village (Guttannen), a
lonely place; above, the scenery grew to the very height of gloomy
grandeur: immense blackened granitic mountains, clothed at the base with
black stunted firs, above all naked tremendous rocks and peaks; between,
just room enough for the river to tumble along, forming here and there a
cataract. The view was heightened much, I doubt not, by the clouds and
storm, so entirely in character with the scenery. I never before enjoyed
a lonely rainy walk so much.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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