Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
Rose Tuesday morning at four o’clock; my feet and legs very stiff and
sore; thought of going up the Simplon road into the mountains to see
some of the galleries and bridges and get fine views, but the morning
was cloudy and I did not like to lose the time; started off down the
valley, but got on slowly and very painfully; however, walked as far as
Lenk, I believe about twenty-four miles, and there hired a char, which
took me on to Siou, the capital of the canton, about twenty-two miles
further, where I slept.
Wednesday, rose at four, and feeling pretty stout, I started off at five
on foot, and though certainly in very far from the best condition for
walking, went on to Martigny to breakfast, which place I reached at half
past ten, twenty-four miles according to the guide-book, but the latter
part was very painful. From this place one may go to the Hospice of St.
Bernard in ten hours. I would have been glad to have seen so famous a
place, but as to scenery it is decidedly inferior to much I had already
seen. One may go to Chamouni in nine hours, getting the superb view of
Mont Blanc from the summit of Col de Balme on the way. Thinking it
impossible to walk farther, I hired a mule, and a person with him, and
went up to the top of Col de Balme (five hours), passing the vale and
glacier of Trient. Reached the summit at four o’clock; enjoyed a fine
view of Mont Blanc and its attendant peaks from top to bottom, or rather
at top and bottom, for there was a belt of cloud about the middle,--a
most superb and complete view, Mer de Glace and all.
Quite satisfied without going to Chamouni, so returned to Martigny at
eight P.M.; another good day’s work, particularly as I walked both up
and down the worst part of the road, being merciful to the beast. On my
descent obtained a splendid view of the Bernese Alps. Much aroused at
looking over the register at the hotel, where the travelers expressed
their opinions of the different hotels on the road, praising some, and
speaking of others in terms of great reprobation; good plan. I think if
the proprietor of the hotel at Sion (a very dirty hotel) could read all
that is written in his own book he would burn it.... Lay down and slept
till midnight.
Thursday, took diligence at one o’clock A.M. for Villeneuve; saw the
falls of the Sallanches by moonlight; arrived at Villeneuve at half past
seven, just after the morning steamboat had left for Geneva; am
confident we were delayed on purpose, to induce us to go on in the
diligence instead of the next boat. For myself I did not mind waiting
till one o’clock, that I might make myself look a little decent, though
I had not the means here of improving my appearance much; as to my
boots, and indeed all my habiliments, they were much in the condition of
those of the Gibeonites when they made their visit to Joshua. Wrote a
little, went out to take a look at the Castle of Chillon, which is
near,--the building itself not remarkable, but the situation fine....
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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