Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
It is time that you should be thanked for the notes you kindly sent us.
They will come of use later. You will wish to know what we have been
doing for the past month, only a month by the almanac, for we left
England October 1, and Paris on the 6th, the latter being the date we
count from. So that there is not yet quite a month of travel, yet it
seems a long while, as if stored with a year’s memories. And the weather
throughout has been superb. One cold day in Paris, and some cool nights
between Bordeaux and Madrid; and then, even at Madrid, we had summer
rather than autumn weather, until, ascending from Malaga to this higher
region, the cool and fresh air which comes down from the snow-flecked
Sierra Nevada makes the sunshine pleasant and wraps desirable at
nightfall.
A few midday hours served for Orleans, and we went on to Blois. You know
how very charming that is, and you may imagine Mrs. Gray’s delight at
the castle, also at Chambord, to which we drove. Two nights there and
three at Tours. The cathedral charmed us; also the old houses and ruined
bits and towers. We passed Amboise, and went from Tours to Chenonceaux
and back by railway,--a bijou to be enjoyed; but the next day’s
excursion to Lôches had a much deeper and more varied interest. By
traveling over night to Bayonne and passing Biarritz at sunrise, a noble
sunrise and morning, with the Atlantic on one side and the Cantabrian
Pyrenees on the other, we gained the privilege of a daylight journey
from Irun to Burgos. It is far more picturesque and striking than I had
supposed. A day at Burgos was a treat, as you may suppose. Leon lay out
of our track and demanded night hours and night changes too severe and
too formidable for a couple ignorant of Spanish and impatient of
couriers. So we went on overnight to Madrid (night travel being
inevitable); and here we had a warm, sunny, busy, and most enjoyable
week, some pleasant home-friends for companions, as also a charming
Spanish family, M. and Mme. Riaño, whom we had met at our minister’s,
Lowell, at London. She is a daughter of Gayangos and had an English
mother; is a charming mixture of Spanish and English and everything that
is bright and good. Then there was a raree-show not to be matched out of
Spain: the royal family with the infanta going to church in state, the
grand procession kindly going and returning under our windows. The
Armeria and, still more, the Archeological Museum were full of the Old
World things we Americans dote on. And then the great picture-gallery,
supplemented not a little by the Academia San Fernando. Add to these
the pictures at Seville, and imagine the treat we have had. I shall
leave all this for Mrs. Gray to expatiate upon next winter.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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