Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
Here we are back at Paris (since twenty hours), and, this being Sunday,
having discharged my religious duty and ventilated my patriotism by
going in the morning to the American Chapel I am going to discharge upon
you a missive which may be of some size,--is sure to be so if I open all
my mind. Whence did I write you last? Malaga, I fancy, where I received
a letter from you ... which tells us of the conflagration of Charlie’s
dog and cat, and the narrow escape of the owner, of horrid weather,
while we have had only one rainy day, and that no great impediment
(though I did have to examine the Botanic Garden at Valencia under an
umbrella and in india-rubbers)....
A good day was occupied in going to Cordova, and the next morning did
the Mosque-Cathedral, which I expected to be disappointing, yet it was
not. Afternoon began the long journey which there was no escaping,
northeast to Valencia: a dull place made duller by rain. Next afternoon
to Tarragona, and a most charming day in that interesting old town and
its environs, the evening taking us on to Barcelona, of less interest.
The next day’s travel, long and delightful, was all by daylight, except
the last hour. It took us along either beautiful or picturesque country,
much of the way with the Mediterranean on one side and the Pyrenees on
the other, out of Spain and as far as Narbonne. A day’s excursion was
given to Carcassonne; perfect, and stranded on the shore of time, an
excellent example of a Middle Age fortified city, cathedral and all;
Visigoth walls and towers on Roman foundations, extended and modernized
by the father of St. Louis, and the finishing touches by St. Louis
himself.
Here endeth the epistle. The rest is simply getting back to Paris. I had
counted on returning by way of Nîmes, Clermont-Ferrand, and a little
détour to see the cathedral of Bourges. But the winds from the mountains
made Narbonne and Carcassonne cold, the few trains from Nîmes were
unseasonable, my wife declared she had so many cathedrals mixed up in
her head that she could not endure another, and so, leaving Narbonne in
early morning, we reached Cette ten minutes after the express train for
Paris had left, and we came on in omnibus train in unbroken journey,
through Montpellier, Nîmes, and Avignon (which we had visited, in former
years), and via Lyons to Paris. And here we are.
Two months of play, delicious play, are up: we landed two months ago
to-morrow. We have had our share, and I have now an appetite for work. I
can be usefully busy in Paris for a fortnight, hardly longer. Then what?
Much depends on what you can see your way to. The traditional “three
courses” seem to be before us, each with its advantages and
disadvantages; and we are so balanced that we shall be likely to incline
as you push the scale....
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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