Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
Up to this time the weather was all that could be wished, cooler, I
suppose, than in England at the time. But that week at Philadelphia was
raging. Mrs. Gray and I were there for the whole week, domiciled with
friends in the heart of the city,--a city which never cools at night, as
it does hereabouts. I bore the heat well, as my manner is; Mrs. Gray,
fairly, by keeping quiet through the mornings and giving herself rather
to the evening receptions, which were fine and most admirably managed.
It grew cooler the moment the week was over and the session ended.
Besides, we moved at once into a cooler region. It was arranged that I
should lead any British botanists that cared to go on an excursion into
the mountains of Virginia and Carolina. But they were otherways bound,
so that I could take only my friend Mr. John Ball of London, your fellow
F. R. S., taking also another American botanist, with whom we had
visited these regions more than once before, and, to make it pleasanter,
we added three ladies, wives and daughters of botanists, Mrs. Gray being
one.
Our first day’s journey was to Luray, in the Valley of Virginia, between
the Blue Ridge and the proper Alleghanies. The next day we visited the
Cavern, which I think is the finest in the world, not forgetting that of
Adelsberg in Styria. It is newly discovered, with wonderful wealth and
beauty of stalactical formations, and is lighted up for visitors with
electrical lights in all the larger chambers. That day we went on to the
Natural Bridge, which we had not seen for many years. It was grander
than I had remembered; indeed, it and the scenery around is worth a
voyage and a journey to see. Then we went on to our favorite Roan
Mountain, on the borders of North Carolina and Tennessee, one of the
highest in the Atlantic United States, and the finest; the base and
sides richly wooded with large deciduous forest trees in unusual variety
even for this country, the ample grassy top (of several square miles)
fringed with dark firs and spruces, and the open part adorned with
thousands of clumps of Rhododendron Catawbiense, which when there last
before, late in June, we saw all loaded with blossoms, while the sides
were glorious with three species of Azalea, not to speak of many other
botanical treasures. There, at top and at base, we passed four busy
days. A narrow-gauge railway recently built, and new to us, reaches to
the base of the mountain, up the Doe River, through most picturesque
scenery, showing to most advantage in the descent. On our way back we
diverged to visit some striking rock scenery on the upper Kanawha River,
and thence to a mountain-top lower than Roan, but with the advantage of
a charming little lake, with banks all fringed with Rhododendron maximum
and Kalmia, hanging over the water for a rod or two, except on the side
where the little hotel stands. Well, I have written a deal here, little
as I have managed to tell you. I think you and Lady Fry should come over
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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