Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
Thence, rail--two nights and a day--to Mobile, where it was warm and
springlike, but no flowers out, barring an early violet. Thence to New
Orleans, which has a great exposition and a crowd, and where, in a
sudden change to cold, I caught a dreadful cold. It began with such a
hoarseness that, going, Mrs. G. and I, to dine with Dr. Richardson
(son-in-law of Short), where we met your and Dyer’s friends, Mr. and
Mrs. Morris[131] of Jamaica, I was taken speechless. I was only for a
few hours at the Exposition (I hate such), but Mrs. Gray went a second
time to see Mexican things. Dr. Farlow, joining us at New Orleans,
brought, to our surprise, passes for us to go by the Mexican Central
Road to the city of Mexico and back to El Paso (the junction with the
road to California), and we decided to undertake it. One day and a night
took us to San Antonio, Texas, where we stayed Saturday, Sunday, and
Monday, till evening, trying to recover from our colds, driving over the
country through chaparral of mesquite bushes (Prosopis) and opuntias.
When we awoke next morning we were coursing along the rocky banks of the
Rio Grande del Norte, mounting into a high region more arid still, if
possible, the only flowers out a Vesicaria; and descending into a great
cattle ranch region we reached El Paso at 3.30 A.M.; got to bed again;
had the day there and on the other side of the river, at El Paso del
Norte, in the Mexican State of Chihuahua, whence at evening we took our
Pullman for three nights and two days’ journey to this place, through
Chihuahua, Zacatecas, Aguas-Caliente, Leon, etc., reaching here
yesterday morning at 8.30. We are comfortably placed in the Hotel
Iturbide. Farlow and I have looked about somewhat, though I am still
suffering from catarrh and cough; Mrs. Gray laid up with hers. This
afternoon a Mexican gentleman to whom we took letters called and drove
Farlow and me out to Chapultepec, whence a most magnificent view of the
whole Valley of Mexico and the surrounding mountains, including
Popocatapetl and its more broadly snowy companion,--with its more
difficult name, meaning White Lady,--at this season always with
cloudless tops. The cypresses of Chapultepec are glorious trees, plenty
of them, full of character, and of a port which should help to
distinguish the Mexican species from the North American. I wish you
could see them. And such old trees of Schinus molle, the handsomest of
trees either old or young, the old trunks wonderfully bossed. Is it a
native of Mexico? I thought only of Chili. But it is well at home here.
Such yucca trees as we have seen on the way here, with trunks at base
two or three feet in diameter, weirdly branched, looking like doum
palms. Opuntias of two or three arborescent species, some huge, and
other cacti not a few.
I have still to compare Arizona with the plateau of northern Mexico. But
I see they are all pretty much one thing....
ORIZABA, February 27, 1885.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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