Botanists -- United States -- Correspondence; Gray, Asa, 1810-1888 -- Correspondence
Sunday morning, to continue my separate doings, I went to the Temple
Church, to hear the very sweet music, better in my opinion than that of
St. Paul’s, and to hear the chaplain (Master is his proper title),
Vaughan. Capital sermon it was. Afternoon I was quiet. At seven o’clock
I went to Westminster to hear Talbot, the warden of Keble. These very
high clergymen have a way of preaching broad-minded sermons. Talbot’s
might have been preached by Phillips Brooks, or even by A. P. Peabody,
except for an incidental phrase or two, and except for some posturing at
the prayers. So my idea of the man, as a man of excellent sense, in
spite of his setting in a very superstitious school, was confirmed.
Tyndall dinner; here as a guest, I was the third on the left of the
chairman (Stokes, president of Royal Society), only Lord Bathurst and
Lord Derby between. The speaking I thought heavy enough, except for Lord
Derby’s speech, which was pointed and witty, and Lord Rayleigh’s, at the
end, which was neat and sensible. Met there (in Willis’s Rooms; the
dinner was in the Almack’s ballroom of old days) a good many old
acquaintances, and of course had a good time.
* * * * *
From London, after more entertainments, Dr. Gray went to Devonshire,
where he made a charming visit at Blachford with his friends Lord and
Lady Blachford; most interesting excursions followed over the downs, a
day up the Tamar to Cothele; and he made other visits on the way back,
one to his old Cambridge friend, Mrs. James, near Exeter, where he had
an afternoon call at Killerton, Sir Thomas Acland’s, and saw the fine
beeches, etc.; returned to London, where there was much visiting before
he went to Edinburgh for another degree. On the way to the north he
visited the grounds of Welbeck, and saw the fine trees of Sherwood
(Robin Hood’s) forest,--beeches, and grand, hoar old oaks.
From Edinburgh Dr. Gray went through England to Normandy, meeting Sir
Joseph Hooker and his party at Rouen; then came a delightful trip given
to churches and cathedrals.
He wrote: “Bayeux and Coutances surprised us, they are so very good;
only Amiens and St. Ouen can compare with them in beauty, especially
interior views.
“No two of all these Normandy churches are alike; even those of
essentially similar style differ both within and without so much that
you would not wish to miss any one. Those old church builders were
geniuses, and worked by inspiration.”
He gave a day to Mont St. Michel, and then separating from the Hookers
he went to Chartres, to see it again after thirty years, and by Rouen
and Amiens returned to England; when came an interesting visit to
Harpenden to Dr. and Mrs. Gilbert, viewing the famous experiments in
agriculture at Rothampstead. And the seeing of cathedrals was closed by
a most delightful and busy day at Canterbury with Canon and Mrs.
Fremantle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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