Letters of George Borrow to the British and Foreign Bible SocietyBorrow, George
Religion
Letters of George Borrow to the British and Foreign Bible Society
Borrow, George
Authors, English -- 19th century -- Correspondence; British and Foreign Bible Society; English letters
directly to what appeared to be the market-place, at a corner house of
which our guide stopped and knocked. After a long pause an upper window
was opened, and a female voice demanded who we were. The old man replied
that two travellers had arrived who were in need of lodging. 'I cannot
be disturbed at this time of night,' said the woman, 'they will be
wanting supper, and there is nothing in the house; they must go
elsewhere.' She was going to shut the window, but I cried that we wanted
no supper, but merely a resting-place for ourselves and horses, that we
had come that day from Astorga, and were dying with fatigue. 'Who is
that speaking?' cried the woman. 'Surely that is the voice of Gil, the
German clock-maker from Pontevedra. Welcome, old companion, you are come
at the right time, for my own is out of order. I am sorry I kept you
waiting, but I will admit you in a moment.'
The window was slammed to; presently light shone through the crevices if
the door, a key turned in the lock, and we were admitted.
To the Rev. A. Brandram
(_Endorsed_: recd. Sept. 11, 1837)
SAINT JAMES (SANTIAGO) OF COMPOSTELLA,
19_th_ _Aug._ [1837].
REVD. AND DEAR SIR,--I left Corunna about ten days since for this town,
travelling with the courier or weekly post, who was escorted by a strong
party of soldiers in consequence of the distracted state of the country.
Nothing particular worth relating occurred during the journey, which
occupied a day and a half, though the distance is barely ten leagues.
Santiago, or Saint James, is, as you are aware, the capital of Galicia,
and the residence of the Metropolitan. It is, or was, the most
celebrated resort for pilgrims in the whole world, with the exception of
Jerusalem, as it is said to contain the bones of Saint James the Elder,
the Child of the Thunder, who according to the legend of the Roman Church
first preached the Gospel in Spain. The cathedral, though built at
various periods and by no means uniform, is a majestic, venerable
edifice, in every respect calculated to excite awe and admiration; indeed
it is almost impossible to walk its long dusky aisles and hear the solemn
music and the noble chanting and inhale the incense of the mighty
censers, which are at times swung so high by machinery that they smite
the vaulted roof, whilst gigantic tapers glitter here and there amongst
the gloom from the shrine of many a saint, before which the worshippers
are kneeling, breathing forth their prayers and petitions for help, love,
and mercy, and entertain a doubt that we are treading the floor of a
house where God delighteth to dwell. Yet the Lord is distant from that
house. He heareth not, He seeth not: or, if He hear and see, it is with
anger. What availeth that solemn music, that noble chanting, that
incense of sweet savour? What availeth kneeling before that grand altar
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