Letters of George Borrow to the British and Foreign Bible SocietyBorrow, George
Religion
Letters of George Borrow to the British and Foreign Bible Society
Borrow, George
Authors, English -- 19th century -- Correspondence; British and Foreign Bible Society; English letters
During my stay at Cadiz I experienced every kind of hospitality from Mr.
B. and his charming family. Upon my departure he supplied me with a
letter of introduction to Mr. Hay, the British consul at Tangiers, which
I have since learned was most flattering to myself and worded in the most
energetic manner. I quitted Cadiz on the morning of Sunday, the 4th
August, in the steamer _Balear_, arriving at Gibraltar on the evening of
the same day. Nothing particular occurred to me during my stay at
Gibraltar, where I engaged my passage on board a small trading vessel for
Tangiers. We were detained by various causes until Thursday the 8th,
when we sailed about noon, and assisted by a strong and favourable wind
we reached the harbour of Tangiers before sunset. I was not permitted to
go on shore that night, my passport and bill of health having first to be
examined by the authorities. Early however on the following morning, Mr.
Hay, who had received Mr. Brackenbury's letters of introduction, sent a
Moorish soldier and his own servant to conduct me to his house, where he
received me in the kindest manner. He had already procured me a
comfortable lodging in the house of a Christian woman where I have
remained ever since my arrival at Tangiers, constantly receiving every
species of attention and civility from Mr. Hay.
Tangiers stands on the side of a rather steep hill which rises above the
sea. It is a walled town, and towards the water is defended with
batteries mounted with heavy cannon. The streets are very numerous and
intersect each other in all directions; they are narrow and precipitous,
and the houses low, small and mean. The principal mosque, or _jamma_
[_djmah_] is rather a handsome edifice, and its tower, or _sumah_, which
is built of bricks of various colours, presents a picturesque appearance
when viewed from the sea: of its interior I can of course say little, as
any Christian who should venture to intrude would be instantly cast forth
and probably killed by the populace. About half way up the hill within
the town there is a small market-place called in the language of the
country _soc_. It is surrounded with little shops or booths, in which
all kinds of dry fruits, such as dates, raisins, almonds, and walnuts are
exposed for sale, and also honey, soap, sugar, and such other articles of
grocery. These little shops are not in general kept by Moors, but by
people from the country of Suz, who speak a different language from the
Moors, and are of a different race, being a branch of the Berber stem;
they are the grocers of Barbary and are, in comparison with the Moors, an
honest, peaceable, and industrious people. The castle of the Governor
stands at the northern extremity of Tangiers, on the top of a high
eminence which towers above the town; its outer walls embrace a very
large portion of ground, which is principally occupied by large edifices
in the greatest dilapidation and decay. The castle itself when I visited
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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