For these two days past we have been so badly accommodated more particularly in coarse food that I have not been at all in cue to write. Last night poor Brown with his feet blistered and scarcely able to walk, after a trudge of 20 Miles down the Side of Loch Awe had no supper but Eggs and Oat Cake--we have lost the sight of white bread entirely--Now we had eaten nothing but Eggs all day--about 10 a piece and they had become sickening--To-day we have fared rather better--but no oat Cake wanting--we had a small Chicken and even a good bottle of Port but all together the fare is too coarse--I feel it a little.--Another week will break us in. I forgot to tell you that when we came through Glenside it was early in the morning and we were pleased with the noise of Shepherds, Sheep and dogs in the misty heights close above us--we saw none of them for some time, till two came in sight creeping among the Crags like Emmets, yet their voices came quite plainly to us--The approach to Loch Awe was very solemn towards nightfall--the first glance was a streak of water deep in the Bases of large black Mountains.--We had come along a complete mountain road, where if one listened there was not a sound but that of Mountain Streams. We walked 20 Miles by the side of Loch Awe--every ten steps creating a new and beautiful picture--sometimes through little wood--there are two islands on the Lake each with a beautiful ruin--one of them rich in ivy.--We are detained this morning by the rain. I will tell you exactly where we are. We are between Loch Craignish and the sea just opposite Long Island.[75] Yesterday our walk was of this description--the near Hills were not very lofty but many of them steep, beautifully wooded--the distant Mountains in the Hebrides very grand, the Saltwater Lakes coming up between Crags and Islands full tide and scarcely ruffled--sometimes appearing as one large Lake, sometimes as three distinct ones in different directions. At one point we saw afar off a rocky opening into the main sea.--We have also seen an Eagle or two. They move about without the least motion of Wings when in an indolent fit.--I am for the first time in a country where a foreign Language is spoken--they gabble away Gaelic at a vast rate--numbers of them speak English. There are not many Kilts in Argyleshire--at Fort William they say a Man is not admitted into Society without one--the Ladies there have a horror at the indecency of Breeches. I cannot give you a better idea of Highland Life than by describing the place we are in. The Inn or public is by far the best house in the immediate neighbourhood. It has a white front with tolerable windows--the table I am writing on surprises me as being a nice flapped Mahogany one.... You may if you peep see through the floor chinks into the ground rooms. The old Grandmother of the house seems intelligent though not over clean. _N.B._ No snuff being to be had in the village she made us some.