It has been written “the _coup d’oeil_ of the castellated Palace of
Boondi, from whichever side you approach it, is perhaps the most
striking in India. Whoever has seen the Palace of Boondi can easily
picture to himself the hanging gardens of Semiramis.” This is true--and
more too. To give on paper any adequate idea of the Boondi-ki-Mahal is
impossible. Jeypore Palace may be called the Versailles of India;
Udaipur’s House of State is dwarfed by the hills round it and the spread
of the Pichola lake; Jodhpur’s House of Strife, grey towers on red rock,
is the work of giants; but the Palace of Boondi, even in broad
day-light, is such a Palace as men build for themselves in uneasy
dreams--the work of goblins more than the work of men. It is built into
and out of hill side, in gigantic terrace on terrace, and dominates the
whole of the city. But a detailed description of it were useless. Owing
to the dip of the valley in which the city stands, it can only be well
seen from one place, the main road of the city; and from that point
seems like an avalanche of masonry ready to rush down and whelm the
gorge. Like all the other Palaces of Rajputana, it is the work of many
hands, and the present Raja has thrown out a bastion of no small size on
one of the lower levels, which has been four or five years in the
building. Only by scaling this annex, and, from the other side of the
valley, seeing how insignificant is its great bulk in the entire scheme,
is it possible to get some idea of the stupendous size of the Palace. No
one knows where the hill begins and where the Palace ends. Men say that
there are subterranean chambers leading into the heart of the hills,
and passages communicating with the extreme limits of Taragarh, the
giant fortress that crowns the hill and flanks the whole of the valley
on the Palace side. They say that there is as much room under as above
ground, and that none know the whole extent of the Palace. Looking at it
from below, the Englishman could readily believe that nothing was
impossible for those who had built it. The dominant impression was of
height--height that heaved itself out of the hillside and weighed upon
the eyelids of the beholder. The steep slope of the land had helped the
builders in securing this effect. From the main road of the city a steep
stone-paved ascent led to the first gate--name not communicated by the
zealous following. Two gaudily painted fishes faced each other over the
arch, and there was little except glaring colour ornamentation visible.
This gate gave into what they called the _chowk_ of the Palace, and one
had need to look twice ere realising that this open space, crammed with
human life, was a spur of the hill on which the Palace stood, paved and
built over. There had been little attempt at levelling the ground. The
foot-worn stones followed the contour of the ground, and ran up to the
walls of the Palace smooth as glass. Immediately facing the Gate of the
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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