The weather is magnificent, and this evening the boat leaves for
Leghorn. I am tempted strongly to go to Florence for a week, returning
by way of Genoa, and probably by the Corniche. If, however, I should
receive any letters of importance, I might take the Turin route, and
reach Paris in thirty hours. In any case, I shall expect to see you
there October 1st. Be kind enough not to forget, or you will put me to
the necessity of going to search for you along your sea-shore.
You say nothing about Grenoble spinach, or the fifty-three ways of
serving it, customary in Dauphiny. Is any one left who used to know
Beyle? I received some time ago a very witty letter, full of anecdotes
about him, from a man whose name I have forgotten, but who, I believe,
is registrar of the Imperial Court. Formerly, there was still some sense
of humour in the provinces, as in the period of the president _de
Brosses_; now, however, not even an idea is to be found there. The
railroads are hastening the process of mental paralysis, and I am
confident that, in twenty years from now, reading will be a lost art....
CLXXXII
CANNES, _October 8, 1858_.
Your gimcracks have arrived here without accident. I shall be in Paris
next Wednesday or Thursday. When you want your trinkets, you can come
and get them. I returned from Florence by land, and am glad to have
decided on that route. After leaving Spezzia the scenery is magnificent,
as fine, if not finer, than that found from Genoa to Nice. I am bringing
with me a lovely souvenir of Florence. It is a beautiful city. Venice is
only pretty. As for works of art, there is no comparison possible. In
Florence there are two unexcelled museums.
When you visit Pisa, I would advise you to stop at the Hôtel de la Grand
Bretagne. It is the perfection of comfort. I committed the egregious
folly, on the recommendation of a Nice newspaper, of going to see a cave
of stalactites, which was discovered by a rabbit. It is in the suburbs
of a town named Colle, in France, but only a step from the frontier. I
was obliged to crawl over the ground for an hour, in order to see a few
crystallisations more or less ridiculous, in the form of carrots or
turnips, hanging from the roof.
I found here a complete desert; all the hotels are empty, not an
Englishman in the street. It is just the time, however, to spend a few
days here. The weather is superb, just warm enough to be comfortable in
the shade, but the sun is no longer dangerous. In two months everything
will be crowded, and there will be a north-wind of the most
disagreeable kind. Travellers are stupid sheep.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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