Last week I made an excursion into the mountains to visit a farm
belonging to M. Fould. Situated on the border of a small lake, before it
lies the most superb panorama imaginable, and immediately surrounding it
is a forest of noble trees, something rarely seen in France. One can
live there in admirable comfort. M. Fould owns a great many superb
horses and cattle, all cared for in the English fashion. I was shown,
besides, a jack used for the breeding of mules. He is an enormous beast,
as tall as a gigantic stallion, black, and wicked-looking, as if he were
enraged. It seems that it is with the greatest difficulty that he can be
prevailed upon to show any attention to the mares. A jenny is brought
near him, and when his imagination has become fired, the mare is then
produced. What do you think of human ingenuity, which has invented all
these fine industries? You will be furious with my stories, and I can
see your expression from here.
Society becomes every day more stupid. In this connection, have you read
_Les Misérables_, and heard what is said of it? This is another instance
in which I find the human race inferior to that of the gorilla.
The waters are doing me good. I sleep better and have some appetite,
although I do not take much exercise, because my companion is not very
active. I expect to remain here almost a week still; I may then go to
Biarritz, or else into Provence. We have abandoned the plan of making a
visit to Lake Majeur, since the house where we were going cannot
entertain us at this time. I shall be in Paris, at the very latest, by
October 1st.
Good-bye, dear friend; good-bye, and write to me.
CCLV
BIARRITZ, _Villa Eugénie_, _September 27, 1862_.
DEAR FRIEND: I am writing to you still at ----, although I know nothing
at all of your movements, but it seems to me that you were not to return
so soon to Paris. If, as I hope, you have such weather as ours, you
should take advantage of it, and not be in too great a hurry to return
to the odours of the asphalt streets of Paris.
I am here beside the sea, and breathing more freely than I have in a
long while. The waters of Bagnères were beginning to make me very ill. I
was told that this was all the better, as it proved them to be taking
effect. The fact is that as soon as I had left Bagnères I felt made
over. The sea air, and perhaps also the royal food which I eat here,
have finished my cure. It must be admitted that the cooking in the Hotel
de ---- at Bagnères is the most abominable I have ever seen, and I believe
verily that Panizzi and I were undergoing slow poisoning.
There are few people at the villa, and those only agreeable people whom
I have known for a long time. In the city there is no crowd, very few
French especially; the Spanish and the Americans predominate. On
Thursday, when we receive, it is necessary to put the Americans from the
North on one side and the Americans from the South on the other, for
fear that they will devour each other.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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