The most wonderful and sublime things in nature and art are rarely
appreciated at first view. Every visitor is disappointed at the first
sight of Niagara. Mountains are not appreciated till we have dwelt long
among them. Goethe was at first disturbed and confused by the impression
which Switzerland produced on him. Only after repeated visits, he said,
only in later years, when he visited those mountains as a mineralogist
merely, could he converse with them at his ease. The sea is but a dead,
monotonous waste, till we come to feel its immensity and power. London
is but a great town till we have wandered in it, lost ourselves in it,
studied it, in fine, till we have found it too great to be comprehended,
when its marvelous proportions are expanded into a nation, and it is
accepted as one of the great powers of the world. "The longer one stays
in London," said a temporary resident, "the more it seems a mockery to
say anything about it." "I remember," says an American traveler, "having
read a glorious description of Milan cathedral, and a few days later I
saw the temple myself. To my first view it was only a large marble
church, fronting on an unpleasant square, and adorned with indistinct
spires. I was shocked with disappointment. But when I spent a fortnight
at Milan, and studied the cathedral in every light and through every
part, I then saw that the description was far inadequate to the
actuality." "When the visitor," says Hillard, "has passed into the
interior of St. Peter's, and so far recovered from the first rush of
tumultuous sensations which crowd upon him as to be able to look about
him, he will be struck with, and, if not forewarned, disappointed at,
the apparent want of magnitude." But he will find that the windows of
the church are never opened, it is so immense as well as so complete;
that it has its own atmosphere, and needs no supply from the world
without; that the most zealous professor of ventilation would admit that
there was no work for him to do here. "When we dream of the climate of
heaven, we make it warmth without heat, and coolness without cold, like
that of St. Peter's." It has been mentioned as a remarkable quality in
Coleridge's mind that edifices excited little interest in him. "On his
return from Italy, and after having resided for some time in Rome, I
remember," says Cottle, "his describing to me the state of society; the
characters of the popes and the cardinals; the gorgeous ceremonies, with
the superstitions of the people; but not one word did he utter
concerning St. Peter's, the Vatican, or the numerous antiquities of the
place. I remember to have been with Mr. Coleridge at York on our journey
into Durham, to see Mr. Wordsworth. After breakfast at the inn,
perceiving Mr. C. engaged, I went out alone, to see the York minster,
being in the way detained in a bookseller's shop. In the meantime, Mr.
C., having missed me, set off in search of me. Supposing it probable
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