"The Roman Emperor Hadrian," philosophizes Hillard, "after many years of
care and conquest, with a marked taste for architecture, and the
resources of the whole civilized world at his command, resolved to
surround his declining life with reproductions of all the striking
objects which he had seen in the course of his world-wide wanderings. He
selected for the site of this gigantic enterprise a spot singularly
favorable to his objects. It was a range of gently undulating hills, of
about three miles in extent, with a natural boundary, formed in part by
a winding valley, and partly by walls of rock. On the east, it was
overlooked by the wooded heights of the Sabine Mountains; and, on the
west, it commanded a view of the Campagna and the Eternal City, whose
temples and obelisks, relieved against the golden sky of sunset, must
have soothed the mind of its imperial master with thoughts of duties
performed and of repose, earned by toil. The natural inequalities and
undulations of the site, which furnished heights, plains, valleys, and
glens, aided and lightened the tasks of the architect and the landscape
gardener. The emperor is said to have inclosed a space of eight or ten
miles in circuit, so that, if the statement were true, the villa and its
appurtenances occupied an area greater than that of Pompeii. Here he set
to work with armies of laborers and mountains of gold, and, in an
incredibly short space of time, the ground was covered with an amazing
number of costly and extensive structures, which had risen like
exhalations from the soil. Besides the imperial palace, there was a
library, an academy, a lyceum, numerous temples, one or more theatres, a
covered walk or portico, and spacious barracks for the accommodation of
the Praetorian guards. Besides these, a glen through which a stream
flowed was made into a miniature likeness of the vale of Tempe; a
flowery plain was called by the name of the Elysian Fields; and an
immense cavern, filled with sunless waters, recalled the gloom of
Tartarus.... The ruins, at the present time, seen hastily and without
the interpretation of an intelligent guide, are a confused mass of
decay, revealing very little of their former destination or
structure.... A considerable portion of the space formerly occupied by
the villa is now under cultivation, and nature, aided by a soft sky and
a productive soil, has been busy in healing the gaping wounds of time,
and covering unsightly ruin with a mantle of bloom and beauty.... The
whole scene is now a broad page on which is stamped an impressive lesson
of the vanity of human wishes. The great emperor, even while his last
workmen were gathering up their tools to depart, was attacked by a
mortal disease; and, seventy years after his death, Caracalla began the
work of spoliation by carrying off its most costly marbles to decorate
the baths whose ruins are in turn monuments to his name in Rome. A
recent French traveler states that a species of syringa, which Hadrian
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