Life and Adventure in the South PacificJones, John D.
History
Life and Adventure in the South Pacific
Jones, John D.
Emily Morgan (Ship); Oceania -- Description and travel; Whaling
It is customary for ships that refit here to allow their men to go on
shore and remain a week or ten days at a time, as the distance is so
great—seven miles from town—that one day’s liberty at a time would be
worth but little. Accordingly, on Monday, April 12th, the starboard
watch were given a week’s liberty, while the other watch remained
on board to paint ship. On landing, what was our surprise to see a
large number of cows standing near, and, to our astonishment, we were
informed that they were there for our accommodation, if we chose.
For the sum of fifty cents we could enjoy a fine horseback ride on a
cow “up to town.” As there were men from four ships going in company
(nearly sixty of us), we all entered into the spirit of the affair,
and each man selected his “horned beast” and mounted.
And now ensued a scene that beggars description. Leather thongs
were made fast to the horns for the rider to hold on by, and the
Spaniard, who led off on a noble animal, seeing all was ready,
shouted “Arriva!” and away he went on the full run, the others
following; the men having no saddles, some were rolling from side to
side, some had seated themselves “wrong-end first,” and all, instead
of hanging on to the thongs, reach forward, and, grasping the horns,
hang on like _grim death_; the cows, with their heads stretched
forward to the utmost, their bells jingling, each one bellowing and
snorting, and their riders, instead of sitting upright, stretched
in a horizontal position, their legs extended, and yelling like so
many wild Indians; the old Spaniard shouting and singing in Spanish,
and the whole cavalcade upon the full run—all this produced one of
the wildest scenes imaginable. As the procession entered the town,
Spaniards of both sexes, men, women, and children, rushed to the
street, shouting and laughing at the “Americanos.” The old Spaniard
kept on, and, after having made the circuit of the town, brought up
at the “Grand Plaza” in front of the governor’s palace, the poor
riders being almost insensible from the continual and deafening din
that surrounded them.
They halted here, and all hands joyfully dismounted; the Spaniards
crowded around to congratulate them on their _good riding_, but,
paying no attention to them, they “_vamosed_” in search of a
boarding-house. By the laws of the island, every white man or
foreigner must have a boarding-house, and be within doors at eight
P.M. This is necessary, that good order may be preserved in the
night-time, and tends to prevent many disgraceful scenes that would
otherwise occur.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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