Life and Letters of Charles Darwin — Volume 1Darwin, Charles
History
Life and Letters of Charles Darwin — Volume 1
Darwin, Charles
Darwin, Charles, 1809-1882; Naturalists -- Great Britain -- Biography; Naturalists -- Great Britain -- Correspondence
About 280 miles from Bahia. On the 10th we spoke the packet "Lyra", on
her voyage to Rio. I sent a short letter by her, to be sent to England
on [the] first opportunity. We have been singularly unlucky in not
meeting with any homeward-bound vessels, but I suppose [at] Bahia we
certainly shall be able to write to England. Since writing the first
part of [this] letter nothing has occurred except crossing the Equator,
and being shaved. This most disagreeable operation consists in having
your face rubbed with paint and tar, which forms a lather for a saw
which represents the razor, and then being half drowned in a sail filled
with salt water. About 50 miles north of the line we touched at the
rocks of St. Paul; this little speck (about 1/4 of a mile across) in the
Atlantic has seldom been visited. It is totally barren, but is covered
by hosts of birds; they were so unused to men that we found we could
kill plenty with stones and sticks. After remaining some hours on the
island, we returned on board with the boat loaded with our prey. From
this we went to Fernando Noronha, a small island where the [Brazilians]
send their exiles. The landing there was attended with so much
difficulty owing [to] a heavy surf that the Captain determined to
sail the next day after arriving. My one day on shore was exceedingly
interesting, the whole island is one single wood so matted together by
creepers that it is very difficult to move out of the beaten path.
I find the Natural History of all these unfrequented spots most
exceedingly interesting, especially the geology. I have written this
much in order to save time at Bahia.
Decidedly the most striking thing in the Tropics is the novelty of the
vegetable forms. Cocoa-nuts could well be imagined from drawings, if
you add to them a graceful lightness which no European tree partakes of.
Bananas and plantains are exactly the same as those in hothouses, the
acacias or tamarinds are striking from the blueness of their foliage;
but of the glorious orange trees, no description, no drawings, will give
any just idea; instead of the sickly green of our oranges, the native
ones exceed the Portugal laurel in the darkness of their tint, and
infinitely exceed it in beauty of form. Cocoa-nuts, papaws, the light
green bananas, and oranges, loaded with fruit, generally surround the
more luxuriant villages. Whilst viewing such scenes, one feels the
impossibility that any description would come near the mark, much less
be overdrawn.
MARCH 1ST.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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