Life and Letters of Charles Darwin — Volume 1Darwin, Charles
History
Life and Letters of Charles Darwin — Volume 1
Darwin, Charles
Darwin, Charles, 1809-1882; Naturalists -- Great Britain -- Biography; Naturalists -- Great Britain -- Correspondence
The choice of Down was rather the result of despair than of actual
preference; my father and mother were weary of house-hunting, and the
attractive points about the place thus seemed to them to counterbalance
its somewhat more obvious faults. It had at least one desideratum,
namely quietness. Indeed it would have been difficult to find a more
retired place so near to London. In 1842 a coach drive of some twenty
miles was the only means of access to Down; and even now that railways
have crept closer to it, it is singularly out of the world, with nothing
to suggest the neighbourhood of London, unless it be the dull haze of
smoke that sometimes clouds the sky. The village stands in an angle
between two of the larger high-roads of the country, one leading to
Tunbridge and the other to Westerham and Edenbridge. It is cut off from
the Weald by a line of steep chalk hills on the south, and an abrupt
hill, now smoothed down by a cutting and embankment, must formerly
have been something of a barrier against encroachments from the side
of London. In such a situation, a village, communicating with the main
lines of traffic, only by stony tortuous lanes, may well have been
enabled to preserve its retired character. Nor is it hard to believe in
the smugglers and their strings of pack-horses making their way up from
the lawless old villages of the Weald, of which the memory still existed
when my father settled in Down. The village stands on solitary upland
country, 500 to 600 feet above the sea,-- a country with little natural
beauty, but possessing a certain charm in the shaws, or straggling
strips of wood, capping the chalky banks and looking down upon the quiet
ploughed lands of the valleys. The village, of three or four hundred
inhabitants, consists of three small streets of cottages meeting in
front of the little flint-built church. It is a place where new-comers
are seldom seen, and the names occurring far back in the old church
registers are still well-known in the village. The smock-frock is not
yet quite extinct, though chiefly used as a ceremonial dress by the
"bearers" at funerals: but as a boy I remember the purple or green
smocks of the men at church.
The house stands a quarter of a mile from the village, and is built,
like so many houses of the last century, as near as possible to the
road--a narrow lane winding away to the Westerham high-road. In 1842,
it was dull and unattractive enough: a square brick building of three
storeys, covered with shabby whitewash and hanging tiles. The garden
had none of the shrubberies or walls that now give shelter; it was
overlooked from the lane, and was open, bleak, and desolate. One of my
father's first undertakings was to lower the lane by about two feet, and
to build a flint wall along that part of it which bordered the garden.
The earth thus excavated was used in making banks and mounds round the
lawn: these were planted with evergreens, which now give to the garden
its retired and sheltered character.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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