Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of RailroadsLeonowens, Anna Harriette
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Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of Railroads
Leonowens, Anna Harriette
India -- Description and travel; India -- Social life and customs
The ride up the Tai Ghauts was one of great beauty. Here and there in
the dells and hollows were little patches of grass which looked at a
distance very like a green velvet carpet. Low-growing wild plants, tall
trees, and creepers were matted together in one network of green,
yellow, red, blue, and purple. The views looking back were lovely. The
noise of mountain-torrent and trickling waters in the midday heat was
most refreshing.
The ancient village of Mahabaleshwar is perched on a high table-land,
and is said to be the most elevated portion of that interminable western
range of Ghauts forming some of the highest ground between the Southern
Ghauts and the Himâlayas. The temple of Maha Dèo stands close under a
projecting rock on the very spot where, according to Brahmans here, the
five sacred rivers of this region take their rise--the Krishna, the
Koina, and the Yena, which flow toward the Deccan, and the beautiful
Savitri and Gaiutri, which, after leaping down the mountain-sides in
many picturesque cascades and waterfalls, unite with other small streams
to form quite a large river, at whose mouth stands Fort Victoria. There
are no lovelier scenes than some of those formed by these two rivers,
and especially remarkable is the spot where they unite, flowing between
deep and wooded banks till they lose themselves in a broad, quiet,
placid stream.
A large reservoir is excavated in front of the temple to receive the
waters of the Krishna and Koina, and in front is a huge stone cow,
through whose mouth the waters flow into it. All around this reservoir
is a fine stone walk, and farther on are several cells where saints who
have long abandoned the world still reside unseen, but not unheard, for
night after night their voices, like the feeble wail of infants, are
borne on the night air, imploring the gods in behalf of the lost, erring
human race. Fiends, angels, heroes, demons, and gods are all worshipped
here.
The Brahman ascetics who have charge of these temples ring a bell to
give notice that the deified beings have taken up their abode in their
respective cells. Krishna, the last incarnation of the Hindoos, has also
a couch prepared for him here. When the sound of this bell is heard all
the inhabitants of this mountain-village betake themselves to a few
moments' meditation. We saw some remarkably pretty women who were
attached to this temple filling the lamps with oil and gathering flowers
and fruit to lay before the shrines; but they seemed to be shy of
Europeans, and would not notice us.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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