Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of RailroadsLeonowens, Anna Harriette
History
Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of Railroads
Leonowens, Anna Harriette
India -- Description and travel; India -- Social life and customs
With their forests of foliage and rich jungles the Thull Ghauts are a
perpetual wonder and mystery to the natives, and the spot on which the
handsome city of Nashik stands is a paradise to the Brahmans. Through it
the Godaveri, sometimes called the Gunga, flows, spreading gladness and
plenty everywhere. Here it was that Rama, with his beautiful wife Sita,
spent the first days of their exile near a dark and dreadful forest, out
of which issued the beautiful deer in pursuit of which he was obliged to
leave Sita, who became an easy prey to his enemy Rawana. Here Lakshman,
the brother of Rama, cut off the nose of the giantess Sarp Naki, the
snake-nosed sister of Rawana, from which event the city itself is named.
There is doubtless an historical basis to all these local traditions,
for Nashik is a place of great antiquity, and is mentioned by Ptolemy by
the name which it bears to-day. This land was no doubt at one time
debatable ground between the advancing Aryan tribes and the aboriginal
settlers. Here the Buddhists took refuge from the persecutions of the
orthodox Brahmans, excavating the temples and caves that abound in this
region.
Nashik is now a Brahman city in the fullest sense of the word. Brahmanic
power, influence, culture, and tradition are felt everywhere. Govind,
our pundit, was in his best humor. It seems he had long desired to make
a pilgrimage to this sacred spot, and here he was without any actual
expense to himself and at the right moment. Nashik is said to have a
population of from twenty-five to thirty thousand inhabitants, chiefly
Brahmans of great wealth and famed for their religious sanctity of
character.
At the jatras, or tribe-meetings, a great concourse of Brahmans,
Hindoos, Rajpoots, and Mahrattas from all parts of India pour into this
city, and our visit happened at this time, for the pilgrims were
arriving from all parts of the Eastern world. Most of the streets are,
like those usually found in Oriental cities, narrow, ill-drained, and
badly paved, but there are some that are well kept, and a fine broad
thoroughfare leads almost, but not quite, through the centre of the city
to the banks of the Godaveri. The lofty houses of the Brahmans, many of
which are three stories high and almost palatial in appearance, were
thrown open to the strangers. Pilgrims thronged the streets and were
encamped along the roadside in tents in the open air or under the shade
of huge trees. Highways lead everywhere down to the river, whose
sanctity may be conceived from the vast numbers and characteristics of
the temples that line its banks and dot the islands and rocks in the
river-bed, nearly all built of a hard black rock capable of high polish,
and some in the purest style of Hindoo architecture.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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