Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of RailroadsLeonowens, Anna Harriette
History
Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of Railroads
Leonowens, Anna Harriette
India -- Description and travel; India -- Social life and customs
From the first to the last day of our visit here there was nowhere
perceptible the least trace of European influence on the people or in
the city. The people and the city were just what they might have been in
the days when Ptolemy wrote about the latter, purely and wholly Hindoo,
and full of a Brahmanic atmosphere of religious mysticism--a
civilization quite different from anything we had ever witnessed.
There are a number of curious excavations in this neighborhood, about
five miles from the town, in the side of a hill that overhangs the
highway from Bombay. The hill as well as these cavern-temples is called
Pandulená. We rode out on fine horses hired from a native stable close
to the bazaar. The ride out was delightful, the views of the country at
once grand and beautiful, but the excavations were much less interesting
than had been reported to us by Govind, and in no way comparable to the
wondrous structures of Ellora. There is one cave here, however, that has
a superior finish. The roof is finely arched; the dogaba, or memorial
structure, stands at the end and is well executed. Another cave with
idols of seated figures has a flat roof, and is not very interesting,
save that near it is carved in a niche a huge figure of Buddha. The
chief idol here is called Rajah Dhanna--_i. e._ "judge of the dead"--and
is held most sacred by the pilgrims, who were now beginning to arrive
here in strong numbers. The odors of the stuff with which the filthy
gossains rub themselves and their altogether disgusting appearance sent
us hastily back to our quiet lodge, and early next morning we bade adieu
for ever to Nashik.
From Nashik to Trimbak, eighteen or twenty miles, the country is one of
unrivalled beauty. Trimbak is a very sacred spot, where the Godaveri
really takes its rise, and is wholly given up to the Hindoo and Brahman
pilgrims, who were pouring into the place from all the country round. It
is filled by a class of priests whose sole duty it is to instruct
pilgrims in the right way to worship and to receive the gifts bestowed
on the temples. The houses of these priests adjoin the temples; they
lodge the pilgrims without any charge, but each person generally leaves
at the temple a gift which exceeds the cost of his stay. We had no time
to examine the temples here, for we spent only a night at Trimbak, and
started next morning, traversing circuitous roads, crossing some small
nullahs, and by dint of travelling all day and night reached the next
important halting-place, which was no other than Damaun, a famous old
Portuguese town.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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