Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of RailroadsLeonowens, Anna Harriette
History
Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of Railroads
Leonowens, Anna Harriette
India -- Description and travel; India -- Social life and customs
Surat was long in the possession of the Mohgul emperors. In 1842 the
last nawab died, and it passed into the hands of the East India Company.
It is still a great trading city; the surtee rassum, or manufactured
silk of Surat, is very beautiful; the gold and silver ornaments sold in
the bazaars are unique and of fine workmanship. Surat is also famous for
the weaving of many varieties of cotton cloths; these are usually woven
in small chequered patterns with bright and elegant borders. Potteries
are not only numerous, but some pottery of very fine form and quality is
sold in the bazaars and is said to be of home manufacture.
The last day we spent in Surat was passed in driving through the suburbs
in a native wagon drawn by a fine pair of humpbacked white bullocks
(zebus), who carried us rapidly over the ground. We alighted at the
palace of the last nawab, called at once the "gift of God" and the "seat
of oppression." Of its being the former there is no trace, but the
shadow of the latter name seems still to fall upon the partially
deserted place. Apart from the collection of Persian and Arabic
manuscripts to be seen in a room adjoining the palace of the nawab,
there is nothing to interest the curious visitor. With the removal of
the Moslem flag that once waved so proudly over the citadel of Surat the
glory of the Mohgul conquerors departed.
The Mohgul quarter of the city is gradually falling into decay; ruin and
desolation mark the spot where many a noble pile of Moslem dwellings
once stood. The very name of the Mohguls is almost a thing of the past,
save that in household song and story their deeds will ever cast behind
them a dark and terrible shadow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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