Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of RailroadsLeonowens, Anna Harriette
History
Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of Railroads
Leonowens, Anna Harriette
India -- Description and travel; India -- Social life and customs
The travellers' bungalow here comprises the upper stories of a spacious
stone building, once the English factory. It overlooks the entire city,
which is built on an eminence, with its old walls perforated with holes
for musketry, its fifty-two towers and ten gates guarded by soldiers,
and also looks out upon the great Gulf of Cambay, than which I know
nothing more formidable in nature. At low tide for miles out one sees
only a vast plain, moist, strewn with shells, and intersected here and
there with deep hollows and shifting sandbanks; but when the tide
changes, and long before the waters appear in sight, are heard
tremendous sounds, crash after crash, thunder after thunder, of the
advancing tide, which comes in leaping like a huge monster, thirty to
forty feet high, and breaks with terrific violence against the shore,
carrying everything before it. Ships and native vessels anchor at a
point some miles down the gulf, where the tides are less strong.
Cambay has witnessed many a dreadful scene of carnage by the Mohguls,
Hindoos, Persians, and Rajpoots. The only objects of real interest here
are subterranean Jain temples; they are situated in the Parsee district.
The exterior, or rather upper part, of the temple would be insignificant
but for the imposing statue of Parswanath, sculptured in white marble,
surrounded by a host of smaller images, many of which are jewelled and
are sold as household deities. Our guide pointed to us a queer narrow
opening at the side which led by means of steep steps to the underground
temples which the Jains, like the early Christians, built for purposes
of midnight assembly and worship in order to escape the persecution of
the Mohammedan conquerors of Guzerat.
Emerging from one of the gates of Cambay, we wended our way through
ruins which are scattered all about the neighborhood. Now a broad paved
pathway, now crumbling tombs, anon ancient structures, a broken archway,
a cluster of roofless pillars, or, again, dilapidated temples, mark the
sites where stood rich and quaint habitations, temples, or pavilions of
the ancient Hindoos. The richness and luxuriance of nature seems to have
vanished also from these ruinous suburbs, and our road was no longer
beautiful, but lay through a deep sandy plain until we entered the
ancient capital of the great sultans, Ahâmâdabâd or Ahmedabâd, one of
the unrivalled cities of the East.
The travellers' bungalow is a pleasant place, and everything in the way
of living is as cheap and good as one could possibly desire. We engaged
a very intelligent guide, who spoke Hindostanee well, to take us to the
places best worth seeing.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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