Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of RailroadsLeonowens, Anna Harriette
History
Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of Railroads
Leonowens, Anna Harriette
India -- Description and travel; India -- Social life and customs
On the next day was the procession of Juggernath. A wilder and more
incongruous scene I never witnessed. We spent several hours in watching
the procession, which, issuing from the native town, traverses a large
circuit round the principal thoroughfares, pauses at the bank of the
river, and then retires to the country-seat of the idol, some few miles
from the temple. The idol is made of wood, is about six feet high, with
a grim human countenance--very unlike the carvings of Krishna to be
found in other parts of India--painted blue, and seated in a lofty
chariot borne aloft on sixteen high wheels. It was drawn by long ropes
held by thousands of enthusiastic men, women, and children, who often
bribe the priests for the privilege of conducting the god to his
country-house. A number of priests and gayly-dressed priestesses,
standing on the platform of the chariot, chanted the praises of the
"lord of life," while the people shouted, screamed, and clapped their
hands amid the wild beating of drums and din of hundreds of native
musical instruments. The air was heavy with the incense offered to the
idol, while nature around seemed to be steeped in repose, myriads of
bees murmured softly their idyllic hum among the wayside flowers, doves
were seen nestling together among the shady leaves of huge pepul trees,
and around the cool recesses of huge tanks and reservoirs numbers of
peacocks sat or strutted quietly about, unfurling their glories to the
noonday sun. More puzzling than even the festival of Juggernath is the
curious state of things still existing in British India, for side by
side with the Church of the Brahmo-Somaj, the advanced thought and
intelligence of the educated baboos and other highly philosophic and
cultivated natives of Bengal, are the temples of the goddess Kali and
the strange festival of Juggernath.
With regard to European influence, it must be admitted that it is
hardly, if at all, felt by the majority of the native population. The
viceroy and the great English grandees are separated from the natives
for whose interests they are there by law and custom which nothing can
overcome, and the officials around whom the whole Indian empire revolves
are often ignorant of the Indian languages, races, religious and social
prejudices, and mode of life of the hundreds of provinces that lie
within the railways, while those beyond are to them, as the wilds of
Africa, an undiscovered country. I have often heard gentlemen of great
intelligence in other respects speak of the people of India with
profound contempt, classing in one indistinguishable mass Brahmans,
Hindoos, Parsees, Mohammedans, Arabians, Persians, Armenians, Turks,
Jews, and other races too numerous to mention.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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