Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of RailroadsLeonowens, Anna Harriette
History
Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of Railroads
Leonowens, Anna Harriette
India -- Description and travel; India -- Social life and customs
On the left side of Maha Dèo is Vishnu, in the grand character of
preserver; the head is very noble and the face of no common beauty; it
wears a tender and smiling expression. He no longer holds the symbol at
once of masculine creative energy and of sensuality, but a peculiar
oblong lotos-shaped cup or flower, the higher and purer symbol of
maternity. Our pundit gave this wonderful bit of sculpture, which
reaches from the low altar to the ceiling of the temple, the name of
"Maha Trimourtri, the Great Three-in-One." By some it is called Bhava
Natria, "Love threefold." Whatever else it may be called, it certainly
makes a wonderful impression seen high above from the principal aisle,
guarded on all sides by gigantic and well-proportioned caryatides. The
shape of the largest cave is cruciform and resembles the plan of an
ancient basilica.
The massiveness and strength of the pillars, which find their deep
foundations in the earth below, supporting the elephant-shaped mountain
above, is rendered more and more striking by the thousand and one scenes
of Hindoo, and particularly Saivic,[8] mythology, in part solemn and
majestic, and in part grotesque and absurd, that fill every part of the
walls; gods and goddesses, heroes and monsters, almost stand out of the
rocks. Here are carved strong and clear the story of the babe Krishna
and the slaughter of the infants by his uncle Cansa. Everywhere are
curious and venerable specimens of sculpture, which, though shamefully
mutilated in parts, still show so high an advance in art, and possess so
indescribable an aspect of animated life, that one half expects the
stone figures to move or to speak. A great number of the pillars have
been undermined by the accumulation of water in the cavern temple; the
capitals of some and parts of the shafts of others remain suspended from
the ceiling like huge stalactites. Enormous creepers and trees have
forced themselves through certain cracks and crevices in the mountain,
and the whole scene is very wild and pagan; which enhances the beauty
and mysterious appearance of the caves.
On going through a passage guarded by stone lions the pundit took a
little tin box out of his pocket, opened it, and scattered some
odoriferous snuff on the head of the lions, and then took a little pinch
himself. His explanation was, that he had taken cold, and snuff was his
remedy for it. "But," said I, "the stone lions haven't taken cold
too?"--"Oh, that," said he, "was a propitiatory offering, lest I should
sneeze in their sacred presence."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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