Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of RailroadsLeonowens, Anna Harriette
History
Life and Travel in India: Being Recollections of a Journey Before the Days of Railroads
Leonowens, Anna Harriette
India -- Description and travel; India -- Social life and customs
As we went out of the great stone porch the declining sun sent a long
line of light through the aisle, the wind blew softly, and the island
stretched away green and beautiful, surrounded with the sea all
a-glitter with the rosy hues of the setting sun. In many places we
noticed traces of color, but everywhere are to be seen the ruthless
mutilations this cave has suffered both from the conquering Mohammedan
and Portuguese soldiers; most of the colossal statues are defaced and
broken, the arms and limbs of innumerable figures are prostrate. Long
lines of pictured story and inscriptions are effaced, but there are
still standing rows and rows of gods and goddesses, their heads crowned
with garlands. These figures, although much defaced, still show that the
artist carved some of the female forms with only one breast, like the
famed Amazons of Greek story. The temple or city of purification was
desecrated centuries ago, and it is now deserted, save for an annual
fair and occasional visits from Brahmans and fakeers; it can boast of
none of the splendors of its palmy days.
About fifteen miles from "Gorabunder," on the mainland, lies
Bassein--or, as it was anciently called, Vassai--once a proud city and
the chief seat of the early Portuguese settlers in this part of India.
But for nearly three-quarters of a century it has ceased to be
inhabited. The city is of considerable size, and surrounded by a regular
fortification of rampart and bastions. It is kept locked up under a
small body of soldiers and an English conductor of ordnance.
By permission obtained from the authorities at Bombay we spent a very
interesting day wandering over this deserted city, its ruined towers,
cloisters, convents, monasteries, and churches, that once belonged to
the Jesuits, which are here crumbling away unheard of and unnoticed.
The only building in good repair is a small pagoda raised over a
Mahratta saint amid a display of the most melancholy of ruined houses,
churches, and colleges. In the vast jungle-covered cemetery of the dead
Portuguese are the tombs of the great Don Lorenço and the famous
Albuquerque. In one of the largest of the churches there is a monument
to a certain lady, Donna Maria de Souza, of the date of 1606.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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