Life and Travel in Lower Burmah: A RetrospectPaske, C. T. (Charles Thomas)
History
Life and Travel in Lower Burmah: A Retrospect
Paske, C. T. (Charles Thomas)
Burma -- Description and travel
The _rendezvous_ was in the immediate vicinity of that filthy river,
the Hooghly, on whose turbid bosom floated various carcases in every
stage of decomposition; crows perched on the putrid remains of defunct
Hindoos, digging their beaks into the more tender corners; while some
of the bodies became entangled in ships’ cables, and not a few were
washed ashore on to the black ooze that covered the banks. But for
the intervention of tobacco, I should have been poisoned. Courtesy
has compelled me to give Calcutta its popular title; but the “City of
Sepulchres” would have been far more appropriate.
The somewhat ambitious plan which I now had in view was to visit the
various places of interest on the eastern side of the Bay of Bengal as
low as Singapore; then to cross to Ceylon, and thence to Madras and
the far-famed Neilgherry Hills, and, lastly, back to—purgatory! Man
can, however, but propose; and I was doomed to accomplish not more than
one-third of the distance. The ebb had evidently set against me, and
seemed inclined to have a long innings. It is hard work pulling against
it year after year; the eternal fitness of things seems deranged; and
but for the hope which “springs eternal,” how many more would give up
the struggle!
But even here the wind was somewhat tempered to the fleeced human
animal, for I started in ignorance, and a measure of compensation was
vouchsafed me, as much, I suppose, as I deserved.
Well-remembered places hove in sight as we steamed down the river
at a rapid pace and once more imbibed a draught of sea-air. The bay,
although quieting down after the storms of the monsoon, was still much
too lively for indifferent sailors, few of whom put in any appearance
on deck, and fewer still at the festive cuddy.
The first port we touched at was Akyab, celebrated for its capacious
harbour and extensive rice-fields. Backed as it is by hills of
considerable altitude, which were clothed at this season in their
richest verdure, the approach to the port was exceedingly picturesque,
and the effects of the alternating lights were particularly beautiful
as the clouds passed across the sun, and a hill enveloped in the
gloomiest shade would of a sudden burst into a splendour of emerald
green. Further down, the hills abutted on the sea, which broke against
them with great force, displaying thereby a line of foam of terrible
import to any vessel that should be unfortunate enough to get stranded
there.
The harbour, which would contain several European fleets combined, is
approached by a deep, yet narrow entrance between two perpendicular
rocks, necessitating cautious steering by steam, and still more careful
handling of a vessel under canvas. This passed, it suddenly expands
into a sort of lake; on a very small scale, Lulworth Cove on the Dorset
coast, between Bournemouth and Weymouth, somewhat reminds me of it.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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