Life and Travel in Lower Burmah: A RetrospectPaske, C. T. (Charles Thomas)
History
Life and Travel in Lower Burmah: A Retrospect
Paske, C. T. (Charles Thomas)
Burma -- Description and travel
Not very long ago, we had to grapple with these hydra-headed
monsters; but before we could do more than scotch the snake, the Act
was repealed. The medical profession stood aghast at such puerile
sentimentality being allowed to guide our legislation, in which we are
ever apt to “strain at gnats and swallow camels.”
But they raised their voices in vain; and the dire results attending
such a course are even yet undescribable.
Except for the landing of a few passengers, a fairly strict quarantine
was maintained, and we steamed away early the following morning, bound
for Moulmein, an important station some way up the Salween, almost due
east of Rangoon, and across the Gulf of Martaban.
I had calculated on transferring myself at this point to another
steamer trading to Penang and Singapore; and was therefore glad that we
arrived a few days before her date of departure, as I should thereby be
enabled to see something of the place in the interval. In due course
we reached the mouth of the river, indicated by a lighthouse perched
on a rock to starboard. From some peculiar conformation of the land,
its waters are navigable for vessels of large burden at any season of
the year, while its mouth is free from anything in the shape of a bar.
Though deep, it is very narrow; and its water was wonderfully clear for
that of a tropical river at the close of the monsoon, when thousands of
tons of earth are generally being carried to the sea.
I mused over the likeliest reason for this exception, and was not long
in thinking of the teak forests, with which the country is covered.
The rainfall averages rather more than 120 inches in these latitudes,
and even this sheet of water cannot wash down the soil in any
appreciable quantity, for the leaves break its fall, and the earth is
bound together by countless roots.
When we were about halfway between the mouth of the Salween and
Moulmein, we made out the smoke of a steamer coming down at a
considerable pace. The captain, having scanned the approaching craft
with his glass, coolly informed me that it was the boat by which I
intended to reach Singapore. I rushed below to gather up my traps; and
by the time I was once more on deck, we were abreast of the new comer;
an active interchange of signals was going on, and the boat in which
I was to be conveyed was about to be lowered. Then ensued an ominous
silence, on which the captain came to me with the pleasing information
that she was bound for Calcutta “for repairs”! A tale is told of a
criminal being led to execution and meeting an unattractive female on
the way to the gallows. He is offered life and liberty, on condition
that he marries her at once; but one look at her face is enough, and
the wretched man, covering his face with his hands, implores his gaoler
to “drive on!” and get the worst over.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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