Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)St. John, Spenser, Sir
History
Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)
St. John, Spenser, Sir
Borneo -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Borneo; St. John, Spenser, Sir, 1825-1910 -- Travel -- Borneo
In the morning we collected a band of mountaineers to shoulder our
baggage, and proceeded towards the hill. The soil around had lately
been cleared, and afforded no shelter from the burning sun. I imagine
Madame Pfeiffer, in all her travels, had never met worse paths,
particularly when we commenced ascending the hill. It appeared exactly
as if the Dayaks had chosen the bed of a mountain torrent as the proper
approach to their houses. At first the stones were arranged as a rough
paving, then as rougher steps, and at last it became so steep, rock
piled on rock, that notched trunks of trees leaning against them were
the only means of ascending.
But, if the climbing were difficult, we were partly compensated by
the shade of the lofty fruit-trees growing in glorious confusion on
either side of our path. Crowded as closely as in the jungle, durians,
mangustins, and every variety of fruit-tree, jostled each other for
the light, and spoilt the symmetry of their forms. I have not seen
elsewhere durian-trees of proportions so magnificent, some above ten
feet in circumference, and rising to the height of a hundred and twenty
feet. When the season is good, it is dangerous to walk in a grove of
these trees, as a breeze gently shaking the ripe fruit from its hold,
it falls heavily to the ground. They are often a foot in length, and
eight inches in diameter, and many a story was told us of Dayaks being
brought home insensible through a blow from a falling durian.
As we advanced up the side of the mountain, we rested at spots where
we could obtain partial views of the surrounding country; large Dayak
clearings now completely brown, varied the otherwise continuous jungle;
gently swelling hills encircled the base of Sirambau, and stretched
onwards to the foot of the steep and distant mountains. The Dayaks
have led rills of water to the edge of the path, at which they refresh
themselves, and occasionally there are rough benches on which they rest
their heavy loads, for they carry up their whole rice crop to their
mountain villages.
After a toilsome ascent, which Madame Pfeiffer feelingly describes, we
passed the village of Bombok on our left, and continued our course to
that of Sirambau, a little distance farther. Here the path was more
level, though it lay among huge rocks detached from the summit of the
mountain.
Sirambau is one of the most curious villages I have seen; it is large,
and the long houses are connected together by platforms of bamboo or by
rough bridges--a very necessary precaution, as the numerous pigs had
routed up the land; and as every description of dirt is thrown from
their houses and never removed, it is almost impossible to walk on the
ground. Thick groves of palms surrounded the village and buried it from
the world: indeed, it looked as isolated a spot as any in wooded Borneo.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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