THE SAMARAHAN RIVER AND THE CAVES OF SIRIH. A Storm--The Musquito Passage--The Samarahan--Rich Soil--The Malays--The Dayaks--The Malay Chief--The Sibuyau Village--A Pretty Girl--Dragons’ Heads--Climbing Pole--Drinking--“The Sibuyaus get no Headaches”--Force repelled by Force--Gardens--Left-hand Branch--Difficult Path--Hill of Munggu Babi--Former Insecurity--The Village--Welcome--Deer Plentiful--Walk to the Sirih Caves--A Skeleton--Illustrative Story--Method of Governing--Torches--Enter the Recesses of the Cave--Small Chambers--Unpleasant Walking--Confined Passage--The Birds’ Nests’ Chamber--Method of Gathering them--Curious Scene--The Cloudy Cave--Wine of the Tampui Fruit--Blandishments--Drinking--Dancing--Bukars Hairy--Scenery--Walk--“The Sibuyaus do get Headaches”--Lanchang--Rival Chiefs--Ancient Disputes--Deer Shooting--Wanton Destruction of Fruit Trees--Choice of an Orang Kaya--Return to Boat--The Right-hand Branch--The San Poks--Hot Spring--Tradition--Hindu Relics--The Female Principle--The Stone Bull--Superstition--Story. Started in the evening from our house at Kuching amid a storm of rain, thunder, and lightning. Our well-covered boat protected us, though the rain fell in torrents and dashed impetuously against the matted roof, creating so great a noise as to prevent our voices being heard even when shouting. At last the gusts of wind sweeping up the reaches became so violent, that we were forced to draw under the shelter of the banks, and await the abating of the storm. I never saw lightning more vivid, or heard the crash and rattle of the thunder more deafening. The storm was evidently increasing: one bright, blinding flash, and one ear-splitting peal, that made my heart stand still, marked the crisis; gradually the lightning became less bright and the thunder less loud, as the high wind carried the tempest before it. In about an hour we were enabled to proceed. As the night was very dark, and the ebb tide nearly run out, we avoided passing into the Samarahan by the Rhium, as the rocks there are dangerous at low water, but chose another passage, very narrow, and, if possible, to be avoided, as the name alone is a warning--“the musquito passage.” It is famous for the size and venom of that insect,--in fact, there is but one other spot worse, and that is Paknam at the entrance of the Siam river. The men, however, repented their choice, as it took us the whole night to get through, and no one was able to close his eyes. The nipa palm nearly met over our heads, and every time a leaf was disturbed a swarm of musquitoes settled on us. I endeavoured to shelter myself under a blanket, but the heat was so great as to compel me unwillingly to face the enemy. I have heard of men, exposed to this annoyance for several days, being thrown into a fever by constant irritation, and I can well believe it.