Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)St. John, Spenser, Sir
History
Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)
St. John, Spenser, Sir
Borneo -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Borneo; St. John, Spenser, Sir, 1825-1910 -- Travel -- Borneo
Started up the right branch of the Samarahan to meet the San Poks,
who were a primitive tribe, never yet visited by Europeans. We were
detained several hours by the numerous obstructions in the river.
At one place, a huge tree had fallen across, and rendered a passage
impossible, except by dragging the boat over. We tried; but an ominous
crack made us quickly push her back into the stream. We then with axes
removed a portion of the trunk, and at last got safely over. We met a
party of San Poks coming down the river, who returned with us. We did
not reach their landing-place till three P.M. A very dirty
walk of two miles brought us to their village-house, which was new: the
tribe having but lately removed hither. The country we passed over was
undulating, occasionally descending in abrupt ravines. The San Poks
had chosen a low, cleared hill for their domicile. We were welcomed
by a perfect storm of good wishes, seized on by a dozen women, who
insisted on washing our feet, tying little bells round our wrists, and
dancing before us enthusiastically. Very few could understand Malay.
We inquired about the deer-grounds; but as these Dayaks are partial to
deer’s-flesh, there was no game to be found in the neighbourhood.
The San Poks appeared mad with excitement; they danced, and drank, and
beat their gongs and drums till daylight, affording us but snatches of
slumber. Their ceremonies were exactly similar to those I have formerly
described.
Turned our faces towards home. When we came to the Bukar branch, we
entered a small Dayak canoe and paddled a short distance up to land
near a spot where a hot spring was said to exist. We went ashore, and
wandered on for about a mile, our guides evidently not quite certain
of the path. At length we reached a small stream flowing through a
flat tract of jungle--the soil a dark mud; tried it, and certainly it
was very warm. Following its course, we came to the place where the
water bubbled up from the ground through the black soil. The spring was
about six feet by three where it issued from the earth, and supplied a
shallow rill about a yard in breadth. The water we could see bubbling
up through liquid mud. I tried to keep my feet in it, but it was far
too hot, and left a burning sensation. A vapour rose above it, but the
water had no perceptible taste or smell.
A few planks of an old boat that we found at this spot have given rise
to a story among the Dayaks of an ancient ship being lost here when
this lowland was covered by the sea. The planks evidently were part of
a Sea Dayak boat, from the way they were cut, and were of a fine wood
called marbau. They have been here for many years--perhaps this water
has a preservative effect. The aborigines say that this spring is the
work of evil spirits, and therefore will not approach it alone. We
brought away a few bottles of it. It appeared a curious place to find
a warm-water spring: no high land near; indeed, no rocks, but all an
alluvial flat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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