Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)St. John, Spenser, Sir
History
Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)
St. John, Spenser, Sir
Borneo -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Borneo; St. John, Spenser, Sir, 1825-1910 -- Travel -- Borneo
In 1851, Mr. Low had gone by the Tawaran, but the Datu of Tampasuk,
who was on a trading voyage to Labuan, having assured us that it was
easier to get to the mountain from his river, we determined to try
that route. He started before us, and on April 15th we followed,
in a pinnace, obligingly lent us by Dr. Coulthard, of the Eastern
Archipelago Company, our party being very large for the conveyance--Mr.
Low and myself, two servants, six crew, and seventeen followers. During
the night we passed Pulo Tiga, and were off Papar in the morning. We
sailed along as beautiful a coast as can be conceived: ranges of hills
rising one beyond the other, some grass-covered, others still clothed
in forest, with soft valleys and lovely bays, and here and there
patches of bright sandy beach, with Kina Balu towering in majestic
grandeur as a background. In fact, the prospect increased in beauty
until, on the evening of the 17th, we reached Abai, where we found the
Datu of Tampasuk in his prahu. The little bay at the entrance of the
Abai affords shelter from all winds except the N.W.; the bar, however,
having only a fathom at low water prevents any but small craft from
entering the river. On the sandy point of the grassy plain, at the west
side of the entrance, is a small well where boats may water. The Datu
came off and agreed to go up the Abai with us, and send his own boat
round by sea to Tampasuk.
Started at four A.M., but made very slow progress, the wind
blowing down the river, and the flood-tide not being strong. However,
by towing and warping, we managed to reach our anchorage about ten
P.M. The banks near the entrance appear to be high, but it was
almost dark as we passed them; then narrow mangrove swamps fringed the
shores with occasionally grassy hills in the background. On the left
bank there are two small branches, Gading and Paka Paka, inhabited,
the Datu said, by some villages of Ida’an. There appear to be but few
people living on this river, or rather salt-water creek. Three very
small hamlets, containing altogether about thirty houses, were all I
saw. There are numerous sheds for making salt, which appears to be
the principal industry of the Bajus. The manufacture is conducted as
follows:--Great heaps of the roots of the nipa palm, that always grows
in salt or brackish water, are collected and burnt; the residue is
swept up and thrown into half-filled pans, where the ashes and small
particles of wood are separated, and the water boiled;--a coarse,
bitter salt is the result. It is not disagreeable after a little use,
and I much prefer it to the common article brought from Siam, and
generally sold in these countries. The natives of the north seldom
use the imported salt, except for preserving fish; whereas, towards
Sarawak, the Siamese is rapidly taking the place of that procured from
the nipa palms.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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