Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)St. John, Spenser, Sir
History
Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)
St. John, Spenser, Sir
Borneo -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Borneo; St. John, Spenser, Sir, 1825-1910 -- Travel -- Borneo
The latter portion of the road was difficult climbing, the clay
being slippery from last night’s rain; but as we approached our
resting-place, the walking became easier. Kiau is a large village on
the southern side of the spur. The houses scattered on its face are
prettily concealed from each other by clumps of cocoa-nuts and bamboos.
It covers a great extent of ground, but is badly placed, being more
than 800 feet above the torrent--that is, the portion of the village at
which we stayed. The eastern end was nearer the stream. The inhabitants
supplied themselves with drinking-water from small rills which were
led in bamboos to most of their doors. We brought up about eleven, our
course being generally E.S.E. Thermometer 73° at twelve in the house.
We felt it chilly, and took to warm clothing.
The Kiaus are much dirtier than any tribes I have seen in the
neighbourhood: the children and women are unwashed, and most of them
are troubled with colds, rendering them in every sense unpleasant
neighbours. In fact, to use the words of an experienced traveller,
“they cannot afford to be clean,” their climate is chilly, and they
have no suitable clothing. We observed that the features of many of
these people were very like Chinese--perhaps a trace of that ancient
kingdom of Celestials that tradition fixes to this neighbourhood. They
all showed the greatest and most childlike curiosity at everything
either we or our servants did.
In the afternoon, Lemaing, Mr. Low’s old guide, came in. Mr. Low
recognized his voice immediately, though seven years had passed since
he had heard it. Sir James Brooke has a most extraordinary faculty
of remembering voices, as well as names, even of natives whom he has
only seen once. It is very useful out here, and I have often found the
awkwardness which arises from my quickly forgetting both voices and
names.
Shortly after Lemaing’s arrival, a dispute arose between him and
Lemoung, the chief of the house in which we were resting: both voices
grew excited; at last, they jumped up, and each spat upon the floor
in a paroxysm of mutual defiance: here we interposed to preserve the
peace, and calm being restored, it was found that seven years ago they
had disputed about the division of Mr. Low’s goods, and the quarrel
had continued ever since--the whole amount being five dollars. Lemoung
said that his house had been burnt down in consequence of the white man
ascending Kina Balu, and that no good crops of rice had grown since;
but it was all envy; he thought in the distribution he had not secured
a fair share. We asked if he had ascended the mountain; he said no, but
his son had brought some rice, for which, on inquiry, we found he had
been paid. Drizzling rain the whole afternoon.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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