Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)St. John, Spenser, Sir
History
Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)
St. John, Spenser, Sir
Borneo -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Borneo; St. John, Spenser, Sir, 1825-1910 -- Travel -- Borneo
In crossing this cultivated plain we had the finest view of Kina Balu
that could be imagined, it was just before we reached the Tawaran
river; we were standing where the young rice was showing its tender
green above the ground: on either side were groves of tall palms, and
in front, the hills rose in successive ranges till Kina Balu crowned
the whole. Its purple precipices were distinctly visible, and broad
streams of water, flashing in the bright morning sun, were flowing down
the upper slopes to disappear in mist or deep ravines, or to be lost in
the shadows of the great mountain.
About three miles walking brought us to the Tawaran, whose banks were
lined with groves of cocoa-nut and other fruit-trees; interspersed
among which were Dusun villages and detached houses. We observed also
a plantation of sago palms, which the inhabitants said were plentiful,
but certainly not in the parts we had traversed.
There were also gardens here as neatly fenced in and as carefully
tended as those of the Chinese; and this rich soil produced in
great perfection sugar-cane, Indian corn, yams, kiladis, and other
vegetables. The whole had a very civilized appearance, the neatness was
remarkable, and about the houses were cattle, buffaloes, and goats, in
great numbers. On reaching the Tawaran, Monsieur Cuarteron left us to
visit a Manilla man, who, though formerly a captive sold into slavery,
had now become the chief of a Dusun village.
We continued our course inland along the banks of the Tawaran until
we reached Tamparuli, prettily embowered in extensive groves of
fruit-trees: we took up our quarters for the night at the old Datu’s
house, which was very similar to those of the Sea Dayaks.
The Tawaran, where we first joined it, was about sixty yards broad, and
the stream was rapid, swollen by the late rains, and muddy from recent
landslips. It is a river very unimportant in itself, as here, not
perhaps ten miles from the sea, there are already rapids that can only
be passed by very small native craft.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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