Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)St. John, Spenser, Sir
History
Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)
St. John, Spenser, Sir
Borneo -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Borneo; St. John, Spenser, Sir, 1825-1910 -- Travel -- Borneo
A hundred years ago, it was reported that the Ida’an were in the habit
of purchasing Christian slaves of the pirates, in order to put them to
death for the sake of the heads. If it were ever true, I believe it is
not so now, as we never noticed dried skulls in any of their houses,
except at Tamparuli; and if they had been given to any such practice,
the Bajus, who never missed an opportunity to malign them, would have
mentioned the subject to us.
As we were anxious to get our large collection of plants as fast as
possible to the vessel, we pushed on next morning by the direct route
to Buñgol and breakfasted there, and, notwithstanding heavy rain,
continued our journey to Kalawat.
Next day we reached Si Nilau, to find that poor Sahat was dead of
cholera, and that his companion had disappeared. We inquired about him,
but could hear nothing. We asked for the rice that they had left here,
but the owner of the house denied having any; though one of our guides
discovered hidden away in a corner all the goods belonging to Sahat
and the missing man. The thief finding himself discovered, ran into a
neighbouring house and began to beat the alarm signal on a drum, and in
a very short time the neighbouring villagers were seen collecting in
arms; but hearing the cause of the disturbance they dispersed, saying
the English might settle with the old thief as they pleased. However,
on inquiry, finding our missing follower was safe, we merely warned the
villager and continued our journey.
On arriving at Bawang we heard the distressing intelligence that
cholera was in possession of all the villages. We met processions on
the river: old women, dressed up like the priestesses among the Land
Dayaks of Sarawak, were chanting and beating gongs, and on the banks of
the stream were erected altars, round which gaily-dressed women were
dancing with a slow, measured step.
We were surprised at the wealth displayed by the family of the old Datu
of Tamparuli. There were silks, and gold brocade, and a large amount
of gold ornaments. We arrived late, having walked in one day what had
taken us three in our advance to the mountain.
During the night we were disturbed by the cries of some of the inmates
of our house, three of whom where suffering from attacks of cholera,
and the only remedy they appeared to apply was water from the sacred
jars, though they endeavoured to drive away the evil spirits by beating
gongs and drums all night. Three people had died the previous day, but
when we left in the morning the sufferers I have before mentioned were
still alive. We had no medicines, not even a glass of spirits, to give
them.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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