Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)St. John, Spenser, Sir
History
Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)
St. John, Spenser, Sir
Borneo -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Borneo; St. John, Spenser, Sir, 1825-1910 -- Travel -- Borneo
Started before sunrise; the stream continues much the same. At first
there were more open glades, with rich soft-looking grass like our
English meadows; traces of wild cattle and deer were constantly to be
observed. The river was seldom over four hundred yards in breadth, but
never less than two; the soundings changed from three fathoms to no
bottom with the usual line, but this great variation was caused by our
not always being able to keep in the deepest part of the stream.
A glance at the map will show how very abrupt are the turnings, and how
the stream doubles on itself, rendering it a very difficult matter to
steer. Occasionally the current would catch the bow of the steamer, and
force it on the shore; but immediately the stern felt the same force,
it was pressed also towards the bank, and the stem again would point
up stream. It was at last found the easiest and safest way to turn the
sharp points.
To-day we steamed by several Malay trading prahus pulling up the
stream, and observed one enormous Tapang tree that rose close to the
water’s edge.
Early in the afternoon we passed the embouchure of the Tingjir on the
left bank; it was about a third of the size of the Baram, and is said
to be shallow: it is well inhabited by a tribe of people called Sububs,
with whom the Kayans are interspersed. A couple of hours after, we
reached the Tutu on the right bank; up this the Kayans proceed when
intent on a foray in the Upper Limbang country.
Saw the first Kayans near this spot. Two canoes were coming down the
river; directly they perceived the moving monster approaching, they
turned and fled; but as they found we were overtaking them, they
deserted their canoes and dashed ashore. Three, however, remained
at the edge of the jungle, and we reassured them by waving our
handkerchiefs. It was a pardonable fear, they had never before seen
anything larger than their own war boats. They looked very much like
the Kanowit Dayaks before described.
We had one fine view of the peak of Molu and of its surrounding ranges;
occasionally the banks are becoming steep.
Anchored after sunset, above one hundred miles from the mouth; we are
now far beyond the influence of the tides, yet the current averaged but
a mile and a half.
Again started before sunrise; the river continued its winding course
with a few patches of greensward; our guides say there are no more wild
cattle, but many deer in this neighbourhood. We passed the sites of
numerous deserted plantations and of a few new ones: we startled the
people at a farmhouse by running our bowsprit into their verandah: no
wonder the women and children fled shrieking to the jungle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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