Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)St. John, Spenser, Sir
History
Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 1 of 2)
St. John, Spenser, Sir
Borneo -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Borneo; St. John, Spenser, Sir, 1825-1910 -- Travel -- Borneo
On reaching the landing-place leading to the Grung village, we found
a large party of Dayaks assembled, who begged us to remain and visit
their houses; but instead, we promised to return in a few days, and
meet the representatives of the neighbouring tribes at their village.
We now pushed on to the Sibuñgoh Dayaks, who inhabited the river’s
bank; but on our stopping at the landing-place, an old man came down
to say that the long house before us was pamali or tabooed, and that
the Orang Kaya was himself in that unenviable predicament. So we pulled
across the river and took up our quarters near a pebbly beach; the men
making temporary mat huts, while we stayed in the boat. In the course
of the evening, a number of the elders of the neighbouring village
houses of the same tribe came down to see us, and promised to provide
small canoes and Dayaks to take us up the stream, as it had become too
shallow to allow of our continuing in the large boat.
At six the Sibuñgoh Dayaks brought the light canoes with which we were
to continue our progress up the river. We left all our crew behind,
taking with us only our personal servants and Kasim. It was quite
a little procession. Each canoe contained but two Dayaks and one
passenger. We started, and were poled up at a rapid pace against the
stream. Our canoes were small, drawing but a few inches of water, and
were managed, as I have said, by two Dayaks, one standing at the stem,
the other at the stern; with long bamboos in their hands, they impelled
us forward at a great pace.
The scenery varied much; occasionally we passed beneath high hills,
which rose smilingly above us, clothed to the summit with vegetation;
Bornean hills seldom frown, their clothing is too luxuriant, their
aspect generally free from harsh outlines, even their precipices have
some softening feature. On we passed, sometimes a long reach stretched
before us, completely overshadowed by trees whose branches entwining
from bank to bank completely sheltered us from the sun, then reclining
on our pillows we could indulge in snatches from the _Quarterly_
or _Edinburgh_. Could the authors of some of the articles but
imagine the variety of situations in which their effusions would be
perused, could they anticipate the delight they inspire in the British
traveller who works his way onwards even towards the interior of
Borneo, they would, I think, be surprised and gratified. The magazines
and reviews are the solaces of educated exiles in all positions. From
these soft scenes and pleasant employments, we were constantly aroused
by our approach to roaring rapids, which foaming over scattered rocks
threatened destruction to our frail canoes; but the skill of the Dayak
was never at fault, we passed every obstruction without an accident. At
these rapids, as at those before mentioned, boats are often lost.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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