Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 2 of 2)St. John, Spenser, Sir
History
Life in the forests of the Far East (vol. 2 of 2)
St. John, Spenser, Sir
Borneo -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Borneo; St. John, Spenser, Sir, 1825-1910 -- Travel -- Borneo
Every day appeared to be adding to the area of cultivation; because,
as the agriculturists became more wealthy, they invited the poorer
gold-workers to join them, and were thus enabled to employ many
labourers. Already the effect of this increase of produce was
perceptible on prices, so that vegetables, fowls, and ducks, were
beginning to be bought at reasonable rates. On the other side, the
right-hand bank of the river, near the little mount of Stapok, about
forty Chinese had commenced gardens without any assistance from
Government, and appeared to be very prosperous. To this spot a road
had been cut through the forest from the town, which afterwards became
memorable in Sarawak annals. Altogether, as I have before observed,
there were about five hundred people assembled here engaged in a war
against the jungle.
Continuing our course towards the interior, we met with no Chinese
houses until we reached the village of Siniawan, at that time governed
by the guns of the little fort of Biledah, admirably situated on a high
point jutting into the river, and on the same spot where the Sarawak
Malays during the civil wars had their strongest stockade. The town
was remarkably flourishing, and we here heard a confirmation of the
reports that a great many Chinese were arriving from Sambas. As we were
anxious to be thoroughly acquainted with the actual condition of the
gold-working population, we determined to walk across from Siniawan to
the head-quarters of the gold company at Bau. The paths were in very
good condition, quite suited for riding over, except when we reached
the bridges thrown across the deep gullies which intersect the country.
From Siniawan all the way to Bau, a distance of ten miles, there was
a constant succession of reservoirs and gold-workings; and judging
from the new houses springing up in every direction, we felt sure the
population was increasing. About a third of the way along the road, a
branch path led to a place called by the Chinese “Shaksan,” where there
was an excellent hot spring, over which Mr. Ruppell had built a little
house. We diverged to this spot to indulge in the unusual sensation
of a hot bath, and found the temperature of the water so warm that it
was almost unbearable; but for any one suffering from rheumatism it
would be excellent. We noticed in the neighbourhood many limestone
rocks water-worn into fantastic shapes, exactly similar to those I
subsequently observed near the base of the mountain of Molu.
There are near the main path some large reservoirs in which very fine
fish are found, and the road being led along the banks, or over the
broad dams, it was very picturesque, particularly near the limestone
hills of Piat, where we found a large party of Malays seeking gold in
the quartz which lines the crevices and the caves of these hills. A
very pretty specimen was shown us with the particles of gold sparkling
as if imbedded in crystal.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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