Saturday, August 3.--Said mass at the little church at Sta. Maria. The altar with altar-cloth only over the altar stone. The rest of the altar was brown wood. We breakfasted with Mrs. P.'s aunt, La Baronne de Veich, whom they are visiting. She lives in a small house with two nieces, Antoinette and Fanny Lutzou. At 10 we went across the Rhine to Gothsburg, a watering-place, where Mrs. Amherst and daughter have been staying; but they are gone to Italy. We walked up to a castle battered into ruin in the Thirty Years' war, overhanging the town. The little church half-way up the hill is a bad specimen of taste enough inside. We came back to dinner at the Baroness's at 2. I went home for two hours, then walked with Phillipps and Tony, as they call Antoinette, to see a house which she is undertaking to form into an asylum for old poor women; back to tea, and home to the hotel at 9. Sunday, August 4. 10th after Pentecost, here marked 9th.--I heard mass at 7 with the famous Kirchen Gesang, of whom I heard from Dr. Sweers while translating Overbury's Life. All the people sang German hymns through the whole mass with wonderful unison. After it I said mass. At 10 was the high mass, i.e., another mass with Kirchen Gesang, rather more solemn; and a sermon. I came home then and wrote a letter to the Vicar-General at Cologne. I received from M. Bonquéan my book of papers pro Anglia, which I had left at Malines. At 1, dinner. Professor Schutz, of the University of Bonn, came to dine. We saw him off at 3, and then found that some one must go to Bonn to get money from the bank; so I took the charge, that I might see Bonn. I crossed the Rhine in a boat, and met an omnibus which took me on the road I travelled in 1820. The cathedral at Bonn, called the Münster, is of a style older than Gothic, but not quite Byzantine, something like our Saxon churches. The choir is elevated high above the nave, which sinks below the level outside, or the outside {297} must have risen. Some arches are Gothic. The University is a large building, what would be called Grecian. In front of it is a handsome promenade or park. At 7½ I called a second time at Professor Schutz's house, and found him with M. Marais, of the Sorbonne. He gave me coffee, &c. His rooms are full of curiosities from Palestine and Egypt. In 1819, 1820, and 1821, he was travelling, commissioned by Government, a literary journey through Egypt, Abyssinia, &c. He is Professor of Scripture, a great Orientalist, a friend of Dr. Wiseman's. We spoke about Humanarianism and Overbury, and the Paris University, &c. I went out and met my omnibus at a ¼ to 9, crossed the Rhine, and got home at 10.