Wednesday, Aug. 7. San. Gaetano. Remembered Affi, 1820.--Said mass at the cathedral. This is a venerable old church, St. Boniface's see. It is something like our Norman style of architecture; at the west end is a remarkable baptistery, with a high vaulted roof now opening to the church. There are many fine monuments, and many more of the worst style; fauns and dragons supporting archbishops, &c. They showed us a holy-water stoup, where Gustavus Adolphus, having ridden into the church, made his horse drink! Near the church is a statue of Guttenburg, the first printer, claimed as a citizen of Mainz; bas-reliefs by Thorwaldsen. We had not time to see more. I was not disposed, with my palpitation just subsiding, to go after the Archbishop or others. We started past for Manheim; on the way we looked at the torn-down cathedral of Worms, in a later style than Mayence, and very venerable. This place was famous in the contests between Charles V. and Luther. We dined at Manheim, then took the railway to Heidelberg, where we put up at the Badische Hof. We saw nothing at Manheim but the appearance of the town, which is very handsome. A French gentleman whom I met in the town, Girardon, of Lyons, said the ducal palace was very grand. Thursday, Aug. 8.--I went out at 9½, having had rather a bad night, and said mass at the Jesuits' old church, which is now the only exclusively Catholic church in Heidelberg. The curé lives in an old college; the church was dreary and empty, and things seem to be at a low point. We went after breakfast in a carriage to the ruins of the castle, which are fine in their way, but not of the right style. Luther was fostered here by the Elector Palatine. It was burnt by {299} lightning in 1764. In the altar we saw the great tun, which is no wonder to my mind. At 11 we took the railway to Baden, through Carlsruhe. There we took a walk before dinner, saw the gaming-table, which is a famous occupation here; I never saw one before in a public saloon. I met Mr. Woollett. a Catholic of London, and his two daughters. He wants confession to an English priest, and I went with him to the convent of the Sepulchrines to see about it. They promised prayers for England. 12 nuns; the same order as New Hall; dinner at 5. Then we took a carriage to the ruins of the old castle, much grander than at Heidelberg. I did not venture to go up the castle, as I felt myself not fit. We came back to tea with Mrs. Craven, née La Ferronaye, wife of the English _Chargé d'affaires_, who is a convert. We met l'Abbé Martin de Nerlieu, curé de S. Jaques à Paris, and his vicaire, and Miss Jane Young. Home at 9½.