Saturday, Sept. 14.--Up at 5½. I went to say mass at the cathedral, and finding that the Roman rite is not allowed in the church alone, I was in the happy necessity of celebrating in the chapel of St. Charles, in the crypt, which is almost reserved for strangers. I waited over two masses. After breakfast we had a visit from Count Mellerio, Rosinini's great friend. Phillipps and I went with him to his palace, and saw Abbate Polidori, who lives there. Mrs. Ambrose came with the carriage to pick us up, and I went to the Church of St. Celso, and to the great hospital fitted up for 3,000 patients; then to vespers at the Duomo, and at 3½ to dine with Count Mellerio. I sat near Polidori. Before we parted he and Signer Mercati seemed gained for England. At 6½ we went to a Benediction at the Duomo, only of relics {325} of the Passion, and not very solemn. This was by occasion of the Feast of the Exaltation of the Cross to-day. I then went to the Archbishop's palace to find the Grand Vicar, to get leave for confessions to-morrow, and without expecting it saw the Cardinal himself instead. As Count Mellerio was to prepare my way to-morrow, I did not speak of England. When I got home I found Mellerio at the inn, bringing a permission from the Grand Vicar. To bed after 10. I have got unwell to-day in the inside,--between yesterday's _maigre_ and the fruit, I suppose. Sunday, Sept. 15.--We went together this morning to the old basilica of St. Ambrose, where I said mass at the saint's tomb, in the crypt. The Phillippses received communion. Then we saw the splendid covering of the altar above, in the church. It is exposed only on three days at mass--St. Ambrose, SS. Gervase and Protase, and Corpus Christi. SS. Gervase and Protase's relics are there, with St. Ambrose's. This altar cost to a bishop who gave it, 80,000 sequins of gold, about the year 1000. I spoke to the Directeur du Séminaire de Chamberry, who was there, and he promised to speak of England. We went home to breakfast at 10½. Assisted at high mass in the Duomo again; not so solemn as yesterday. The procession of the Blessed Sacrament before it did not please me much. After high mass I went to call on the Cardinal again. I was not so much disappointed as in the case of the Bishop of _Brixen_, for I had heard nothing promising about this interview as in the other cases; but I felt as one defeated when I went away. I went to the Piazza del Castello to see the Contessa del Verme and her sister, English people, converts to whom Abbate Vittadini, at Bergamo, recommended me. Her sister, Miss Mary Webster, is just about entering the order of the Visitation here. The Count came in just when I was gone out, and followed me to S. Alessandro, of the Barnabites, which he had heard me ask for as I left his house. I brought him to see Phillipps. We dined at 3½, and at 4½ went to the Arena, or Amphitheatre, where