Meanwhile his fluctuations of purpose between a plunge into a life of solitude and study and an excursion in Brown's company to Scotland had been decided in favour of the Scottish tour. George and his bride having to set out for Liverpool on June 22, it was arranged that Keats and Brown should accompany them so far on their way to the north. The coach started from the Swan and two Necks in Lad Lane, and on the first day stopped for dinner at Redbourne near St Albans, where Keats's friend of medical student days, Mr Stephens, was in practice. He came to shake hands with the travelling party at the poet's request, and many years afterwards wrote an account of the interview, the chief point of which is a description of Mrs George Keats. 'Rather short, not what might be called strictly handsome, but looked like a being whom any man of moderate sensibility might easily love. She had the imaginative poetical cast. Somewhat singular and girlish in her attire.... There was something original about her, and John seemed to regard her as a being whom he delighted to honour, and introduced her with evident satisfaction.' FOOTNOTES: [1] Cary's Dante: _Inferno_, iv, 126. [2] _Diary of Henry Crabb Robinson_, as quoted by W. Knight, _Life of Wordsworth_, ii. 228-9. [3] C.C. Clarke, _Recollections of Writers_, pp. 149-50. [4] Hazlitt, _The Spirit of the Age_: Collected Works, iv, 276. [5] Woodhouse suggests that the romance which he lays aside is his own _Endymion_, meaning his task of seeing it through the press: but this must surely be a mistake. [6] Woodhouse Transcripts (Poetry II) in Crewe MS. These verses are only to be found in the latest editions of Keats. They are not good, but interesting as containing in embryo ideas which afterwards grew into great poetry in the nightingale ode, the first book of _Endymion_, and the _Ode to Melancholy_. [7] The 'Enchanted Castle,' which Keats explicitly names, belonged at this date to Mr Wells of Redleaf, and was not exhibited until 1819, so that he probably knew it only through the engraving by Vivares and Woollett. CHAPTER IX JUNE-AUGUST 1818: THE SCOTTISH TOUR First sight of Windermere--Ambleside, Rydal, Keswick--Attitude towards scenery--Ascent of Skiddaw--A country dancing-school--Dumfries--The Galloway coast--Meg Merrilies--Flying visit to Belfast--Contrasts and reflections--The Duchess of Dunghill--The Ayrshire coast--In Burns's cottage--Lines on his pilgrimage--Through Glasgow to Loch Lomond--A confession--Loch Awe to the coast--Hardships--Kerre a and Mull--Staffa--A sea cathedral--Ben Nevis--Tour cut short--Return to Hampstead.