"When I landed in June, 1822, only five or six mines had been
discovered, but in January 1823, when I left the country, I cannot
pretend to enumerate those in a state of progress and of promise.
It is not only in the mining part of the business that the
want of skill is prejudicial to the result. It is imperfectly
ground, for instance, and consequently cannot be brought into that
intimate contact with the quicksilver which is necessary to perfect
amalgamation. The machine for grinding is very simple: a large flat
stone, like a mill-stone, is made to revolve upon its fellow by an
ox or mule power. The poorest people reduce it to powder by manual
labour, in the same way as they grind corn preparatory to baking it
into cakes. Alverado's machine promised to be a great acquisition. The
grinding was facilitated by a little water; when the ore is judged to
be sufficiently well ground, a portion of quicksilver is thrown in
by guess, and the motion of the machine continued until the union of
the metals is supposed to be complete; the whole is then removed into
large wide-mouthed conical-shaped wooden vessels. In these receptacles
it undergoes repeated washings, by stirring occasionally round, and
afterwards communicating to the vessel a swinging or half-rotary
motion, by which a quantity of the water, having the earthy particles
suspended, is driven over the edges; the amalgamated mass naturally
sinks to the bottom, and at last remains tolerably clean.
"The next step is the recovery of the quicksilver by distillation,
after which the gold is melted in a crucible and run into ingots. The
coasts are hot, and from the luxuriant vegetation that everywhere
abounds, emit, as in all situations of the kind, febrile miasma
in abundance when acted on by heat and moisture; but black vomit
is unknown, and all the fever cases I have seen have been of the
remitting and intermitting, free from character of malignancy. As the
ground begins immediately to spring from the coast, and does so indeed
very rapidly, a few miles takes us beyond the region of even these
slight fevers, and as we continue ascending to the central table-land,
a climate is encountered that may vie with any in the world for
benignancy and beauty. We there meet with the fruits of the torrid
zone, and near them the apple and the peach of Europe. The orange
tree is in bearing the whole year. As in all situations within the
tropics, it has a proper rainy season, but it is less inconvenient and
disagreeable than might be expected, for it seldom rains two days in
succession, and when it does, is invariably succeeded by an interval
of fine weather; for the most part every day presents a few dry hours.
The mines are situated on the ridges of the Cordillera, which without
presenting snow-covered peaks, attain, nevertheless, considerable
elevation. The clouds, constantly attracted by those high summits,
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