Browning, Robert, 1812-1889; Poets, English -- 19th century -- Biography
Their Pisan home was amid sacred associations. It was situate in an old
palazzo built by Vasari, within sight of the Leaning Tower and the
Duomo. There, in absolute seclusion, they wrote and planned. Once and
again they made a pilgrimage to the Lanfranchi Palace "to walk in the
footsteps of Byron and Shelley": occasionally they went to Vespers in
the Duomo, and listened, rapt, to the music wandering spirally through
the vast solitary building: once they were fortunate in hearing the
impressive musical mass for the dead, in the Campo Santo. They were even
reminded often of their distant friend Horne, for every time they
crossed one of the chief piazzas they saw the statue of Cosimo de Medici
looking down upon them.
In this beautiful old city, so full of repose as it lies "asleep in the
sun," Mrs. Browning's health almost leapt, so swift was her advance
towards vigour. "She is getting better every day," wrote her husband,
"stronger, better wonderfully, and beyond all our hopes."
That happy first winter they passed "in the most secluded manner,
reading Vasari, and dreaming dreams of seeing Venice in the summer." But
early in April, when the swallows had flown inland above the pines of
Viareggio, and Shelley's favourite little Aziola was hooting silverly
among the hollow vales of Carrara, the two poets prepared to leave what
the frailer of them called "this perch of Pisa."
But with all its charm and happy associations, the little city was dull.
"Even human faces divine are quite _rococo_ with me," Mrs. Browning
wrote to a friend. The change to Florence was a welcome one to both.
Browning had already been there, but to his wife it was as the
fulfilment of a dream. They did not at first go to that romantic old
palace which will be for ever sociate with the author of "Casa Guidi
Windows," but found accommodation in a more central locality.
When the June heats came, husband and wife both declared for Ancona, the
picturesque little town which dreams out upon the Adriatic. But though
so close to the sea, Ancona is in summer time almost insufferably hot.
Instead of finding it cooler than Florence, it was as though they had
leapt right into a cauldron. Alluding to it months later, Mrs. Browning
wrote to Horne, "The heat was just the fiercest fire of your
imagination, and I _seethe_ to think of it at this distance."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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