Light Science for Leisure Hours: A series of familiar essays on scientific subjects, natural phenomena, &c.Proctor, Richard A. (Richard Anthony)
Science
Light Science for Leisure Hours: A series of familiar essays on scientific subjects, natural phenomena, &c.
Proctor, Richard A. (Richard Anthony)
Science
At Yokohama, in Japan, more than 10,500 miles from Arica, an enormous
wave poured in on August 14, but at what hour we have no satisfactory
record. So far as distance is concerned, this wave affords most
surprising evidence of the stupendous nature of the disturbance to
which the waters of the Pacific Ocean had been subjected. The whole
circumference of the earth is but 25,000 miles, so that this wave had
travelled over a distance considerably greater than two-fifths of the
earth’s circumference. A distance which the swiftest of our ships could
not traverse in less than five or six weeks had been swept over by this
enormous undulation in the course of a few hours.
More complete details reach us from the Southern Pacific.
Shortly before midnight the Marquesas Isles and the low-lying Tuamotu
group were visited by the great wave, and some of these islands were
completely submerged by it. The lonely Opara Isle, where the steamers
which run between Panama and New Zealand have their coaling station,
was visited at about half-past eleven in the evening by a billow which
swept away a portion of the coal depôt. Afterwards great waves came
rolling in at intervals of about twenty minutes, and several days
elapsed before the sea resumed its ordinary ebb and flow.
It was not until about half-past two on the morning of August 14, that
the Samoa Isles (sometimes called the Navigator Islands) were visited
by the great wave. The watchmen startled the inhabitants from their
sleep by the cry that the sea was about to overwhelm them; and already,
when the terrified people rushed from their houses, the sea was found
to have risen far above the highest watermark. But it presently began
to sink again, and then commenced a series of oscillations, which
lasted for several days and were of a very remarkable nature. Once in
every quarter of an hour the sea rose and fell, but it was noticed
that it rose twice as rapidly as it sank. This peculiarity is well
worth remarking. The eminent physicist Mallet speaks thus (I follow
Lyell’s quotation) about the waves which traverse an open sea: ‘The
great sea-wave, advancing at the rate of several miles in a minute,
consists, in the deep ocean, of a long low swell of enormous volume,
having an equal slope before and behind, and that so gentle that it
might pass under a ship without being noticed. But when it reaches the
edge of soundings its front slope becomes short and steep, while its
rear slope is long and gentle.’ On the shores visited by such a wave,
the sea would appear to rise more rapidly than it sank. We have seen
that this happened on the shores of the Samoan group, and therefore
the way in which the sea rose and fell on the days following the great
earthquake gave significant evidence of the nature of the sea-bottom in
the neighbourhood of these islands. As the change of the great wave’s
figure could not have been quickly communicated, we may conclude with
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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