So three days later saw them safe at Meran. To Linnet, that journey from
north to south, across the great ridge of the Alps, seemed like
transplantation into an earthly fairyland. She had never seen the
luscious wealth of vineclad lands before; for North and South Tyrol are
two different countries, one cold, bleak, Germanic, the other soft,
warm, Italian. Meran itself appeared to her ardent imagination more
beautiful than anything eye hath seen or mind conceived of. And, indeed,
it is beautiful. Whoever knows it loves it. A brawling little mountain
stream, the Passer, rushes headlong from the glaciers of the Otzthaler
Alps through a wild upland glen, to join in due time the broader stream
of the Adige, which threads the bleak Vintschgau on its precipitous
course from the lofty snow-fields of the Ortler and the Wild-Spitze.
Near the point where the two unite, on a long tongue of land, the little
town of Meran nestles close among its vines, under shelter of the
rounded ice-worn Küchelberg. It clings with its ancient walls, its
steeples, its watch-towers, as if glued to the lower slopes of the
basking mountain. Linnet gazed at it, delighted. For here, on the south
side of the Alps, looking down the broad valley to sunny Italy, the
vegetation differed greatly, both in richness and in character, from
anything she had ever seen in her native Zillerthal. Indeed, even Italy
itself, parched as it often is with excessive heat, seldom shows such
wild luxuriance of foliage and fruit as these green and well-watered
South Tyrolese valleys. There is a bowery, flowery lavishness and
lushness about it all that defies description. The vines that trail
loose across their trellised archways; the gourds that hang pendent from
their wooden frails; the great yellow pumpkins that lean temptingly over
every terraced wall; the lizards that bask blinking on the sun-smitten
rock-face; the crimson sprays of Virginia creeper that droop in festoons
from the brown verandah wood-work of coquettish châlets, mingled with
the pine-clad slopes and bare snow-sprinkled peaks of the upper
background, make a charming hybrid between Switzerland and Lombardy.
Imagine for yourself an ancient German town, with mouldering walls and
high turrets, like Boppard or Andernach, and crenellated castles of
quaint mediæval architecture, but with arcaded streets and Italian
loggias, plumped down incongruously in the midst of this half-Alpine,
half-southern scenery, and you get a very fair bird’s-eye view indeed,
in its way, of the main traits of Meran.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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