Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals; Science -- Periodicals
We had sailed down during the night from Marquesas across the Rebecca
shoals, and when caught by the squall were off Bush Key, one of the most
easterly of the group, which enjoys the distinction of possessing Dry
Tortugas,--why "dry" we know not. Our extraordinary entrance, almost
instantaneous, from rough to comparatively smooth water can only be
explained by a casual reference to the great reef. The group of
keys--Loggerhead, Bird, Long, Middle, East, North, Bush, Sand, and
Garden--are all within seven miles of each other, Garden, Bird, Bush,
and Long being in close proximity,--within swimming-distance, if the
swimmer be not nervous in regard to sharks. From these central keys a
great sandy shoal spreads away on all sides, cut up, however, by several
deep channels admitting vessels of the largest draught. To the east and
south the reef is two miles wide and rarely over four feet deep, covered
at intervals with great fields of branch corals, while here and there
clusters of enormous heads of astrea, porites, etc., have collected. The
edge of the reef is formed of dead coral rock, often beaten up by the
waves into a continuous wall several miles in extent, and a few steps
beyond this the water deepens quickly, until at the length of a vessel
from it no bottom is visible.
The one opening in this barrier on the side of our approach, so
formidable in a gale, is the passage through which the skill of Sandy
had safely brought us, being, as its name explains, five feet deep and
not many more in width, and used only at odd times by the few pilots and
fishermen of the reef who know the secret of its approach. But how old
Sandy found it when completely covered by the waves, with only the tops
of certain trees to steer by, is one of the mysteries.
Our object in visiting this desolate part of the country was to capture
turtles. Here is the ground of the green and loggerhead turtles, and,
according to Sandy, the hawksbill, from which the shell of commerce is
taken, is also occasionally found.
The squall was now a fast-disappearing pillar in the west. The
anchor-chain ran merrily out, and we rounded to in the narrow harbor of
Garden Key. The boys manned the pump, while Sandy and the writer pulled
for the shore, and the dingy soon crunched into the white, sandy beach
of the coral island which during the war was the Botany Bay of America.
Surely Dry Tortugas has been maligned: instead of dry we find it very
wet, a key of sand thirteen acres in extent, hardly one foot above the
tide, and entirely occupied by probably the largest brick fort in the
world.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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