Lippincott's Magazine of Popular Literature and Science, December 1878Various
History
Lippincott's Magazine of Popular Literature and Science, December 1878
Various
Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals; Science -- Periodicals
France has a right to exemplify the Jacquard in its fulness, for it is
hers. The original machine of Vaucanson and that of Jacquard are in the
Conservatoire des Arts et Metiers, as well as a long series of
exemplifications of successive improvements. The Grand Maison de Blanc
of Paris has a large one, making an immense linen cloth of damask
figures, all in white, and representing what I took at first to be an
allegorical picture of all the nations bringing their gifts to the
Exposition. I found afterward that it was called _Fees du Dessert_. It
is about three metres wide, and just as long as you please to make it,
but the pattern is repeated every five metres. The design, on paper, is
hung against the wall, and is twelve by eight metres, all laid off in
squares of twelve millimetres, and these again into smaller ones exactly
a square millimetre in size. The number of small squares on the sheet of
paper is ninety-six million, which represents the number of the
intersections of the warp and woof in the pattern. There are nine
thousand and sixty-six perforated cards in the Jacquard arrangement for
floating the threads which form the damask pattern, and the whole
machine stands on a space of about twenty by twelve feet and is eighteen
feet high. It is worked by one man, without steam-power, the shifting of
the harness being done by two foot-levers and the shuttle thrown by a
pull-cord.
We may here observe the looms that weave the marvellously fine silk
gauzes realizing such fanciful Indian names as "morning mist," which
poetically express the lightness of a web that when spread upon the
grass is not visible unless one stoops down and examines closely. To
even name the various looms here would be to make a list of ribbons,
velvets, cloths and other tissues. The subsidiary machines for dressing
the fabrics are here also--for napping, teasling, shearing, stretching
and brushing, for measuring, folding and packing.
The other modes of making fabrics shown are a machine for making
fishing-nets of great width, and a number of knitting-machines, from the
stocking-frame of eighty years ago to the small domestic machine, and
the larger one with nine hundred needles in the circumference and making
a circular seamless fabric eighteen inches in diameter. The march of
improvement is eminently shown here, where an old man is patiently
knitting a flat web of ten inches with a series of five motions between
the rows of stitches, while just by are the circular machines, whose
motions are so rapid that the clicks of the needles merge into a whir,
and a man is able to attend to six machines, making one hundred and
thirty pounds of knitted goods per day.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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