Lippincott's Magazine of Popular Literature and Science, Vol. 26, October, 1880Various
History
Lippincott's Magazine of Popular Literature and Science, Vol. 26, October, 1880
Various
Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals; Science -- Periodicals
The grapes from which port-wine is made are all grown within the narrow
compass of a mountain-valley about twenty-seven miles long by five or
six wide, where the conditions of soil and climate most favorable to
wine-culture--including a large degree of both heat and cold--are found
in perfection. Owing to its elevation the frosts in this district are
tolerably severe, while in summer the sun looks steadily down with his
hot glance into the valley till its vine-clad sides are permeated by
heat. The grapes ripened there are of peculiar richness and strength.
The trade is all in the hands of a certain number of English merchants
at Oporto, who buy the grapes as they hang of the native farmers and
have the wine made under their own supervision. The wine-making is
conducted in much the same manner as in other countries, a certain
quantity of spirits being added to arrest decay and ensure its
preservation. All wine has passed through the first stage of decay,
fermentation, and is liable at any time to continue the course. It may
be made with little or no alcohol if it is to be drunk within the year:
to ensure a longer lease of life some antiseptic is necessary. Port is,
from its richness, peculiarly liable to decay, and will stand
fortification better than sherry, which being a light wine is less in
need of it and more apt to be over-fortified. The area in which port is
produced being so small, there can be no material difference in the
produce of different vineyards, but some slight superiorities of soil or
aspect have given the Vesuvio, the Raida and a few other wines a special
reputation.
The history of port is a somewhat curious one. It is associated closely
with the old English gentleman of a bygone generation, a staunch and
bigoted being who despised French wines as he abhorred the French
nation, and agreed with Doctor Johnson that claret was for boys, port
for men. The vintage of 1820 was a remarkable one in Portugal. The port
made in that season was of a peculiar strength and sweetness, in color
nearly black. The old English gentleman would acknowledge no other as
genuine, and, as Nature positively refused to repeat the experiment, the
practice of dyeing port with dried elderberries and increasing the
infusion of brandy to impart strength and flavor was resorted to. It was
successful for some time, but after a while the secret oozed out, and
the public began to receive the garnet-hued liquid again into favor, and
to find, with Douglas Jerrold, that it preferred the old port to the
_elder_. The elderberry is not sufficiently common in Portugal to make
the continuation of this process popular with wine-makers. At present
port is tolerably free from adulteration, though its casks and those of
an inferior red wine of Spain after voyaging to England sometimes find
their contents a little mixed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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