Lippincott's Magazine of Popular Literature and Science, Volume 11, No. 22, January, 1873Various
Science
Lippincott's Magazine of Popular Literature and Science, Volume 11, No. 22, January, 1873
Various
Literature, Modern -- 19th century -- Periodicals; Science -- Periodicals
The day following my arrival in Florence I went out to look for
lodgings, which I had the good fortune to find immediately. I secured
the first I looked at. They were in the Borgo SS. Apostoli, in close
proximity to the Piazza del Granduca, now Delia Signoria. I was passing
this square, thinking of my good luck in finding my niche for the
winter, when, much to my surprise, some one accosted me in English.
Think of my dismay at seeing one of the irrepressible Paris bores I had
fled from! He was in Florence before me, having come by a different
route; and neither of us had known anything about the other's intention
to quit Paris. He asked me at once where I was stopping, and I told him
at the Hotel a la Fontana, not deeming it necessary to add that I was
then on my way there to pack up my traveling-bag and pay my bill. As he
was "doing" Florence in about three days, he never found me out. The
next I heard of him he was "doing" Rome. This American prided himself on
his knowledge of Italian; and one day in a restaurant, wishing for
cauliflower _(cavolo fiore)_, he astonished the waiter by calling for
_horse. "Cavallo"!_ he roared--"_Portéz me cavallo!_" "Cavallo!"
repeated the waiter, with the characteristic Italian shrug. "_Non
simangia in Italia, signore_" (It is not eaten in Italy, signore). Then
followed more execrable Italian, and the waiter brought him something
which elicited "_Non volo! non volo!_" (I don't fly! I don't fly!) from
the American, and "_Lo credo, signore_" from the baffled waiter, much to
the amusement of people at the adjacent tables.
I liked my new quarters very much. They consisted of two goodly-sized
rooms, carpeted with thick braided rag carpets, and decently furnished,
olive oil provided for the quaint old classic-shaped lamp, and the rooms
kept in order, for the astounding price of thirty francs a month. Wood I
had to pay extra for when I needed a fire, and that indeed was
expensive; for a bundle only sufficient to make a fire cost a franc.
There were few days, however, even in that exceptional winter, which
rendered a fire necessary. The _scaldino_ for the feet was generally
sufficient, and this, replenished three times a day, was included in the
rent.
One of my windows looked out on olive-gardens and on the old church San
Miniato, on the hill of the same name. Mr. Hart, the sculptor, told me
that those rooms were very familiar to him. Buchanan Read, I think he
said, had occupied them, and the walls in many places bore traces of
artist vagaries. There were several nice caricatures penciled among the
cheap frescoes of the walls. All the walls are frescoed in Florence.
Think of having your ceiling and walls painted in a manner that
constantly suggests Michael Angelo!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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